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Updated: June 5, 2025
It is true one old woman when she handed me a teaspoon wiped it on the back of her skirt; but they don't set you down to drink tea without a tablecloth, and they don't search in each other's heads in your presence, they don't put their fingers inside the glass when they hand you milk or water; the crockery is clean, the kvass is transparent as beer in fact, there is a cleanliness of which our Little Russians can only dream, yet the Little Russians are far and away cleaner than the Great Russians!
A little clean rye straw is placed inside of the vat, in front of the bunghole, allowing the kvass to run fairly clear into the wooden cup. When the vat is three-quarters empty more water is added; this must be done very often, as the kvass barrel with its single drinking cup placed always on top of the barrel is regarded as common property.
"And at that moment, as luck would have it, we were eating grated radish with kvass and frying fish, and there was a stink enough in the flat to make the devil sick. I was lying down I'd had a drop my virago bounced out at the young people with her face crimson, . . . It was a disgrace in fact. But Sasha rose superior to it all." "Yes, our Sasha is a good fellow," said Boris.
Her trunks contained thousands of things which nobody in the house but herself would have thought of preserving. Once I lost my temper with her. This was how it happened. One day after luncheon I poured myself out a glass of kvass, and then dropped the decanter, and so stained the tablecloth. "Go and call Natalia, that she may come and see what her darling has done," said Mamma.
She took off her jewels, a glass of kvass was put in her hand, and she sang a farewell song. "All at once," says the writer, "the old woman who accompanied her, and whom they called the angel of death, bade her to drink quickly, and to enter into the cabin of the boat, where lay the dead body of her master.
The hut was smoke-begrimed, as its stove had no chimney, but it had been tidied up, and benches stood round the table, making room for all those who had been working, of whom there were nine, not counting the owners. Bread, soup, boiled potatoes, and kvass were placed on the table. An old one-armed beggar, with a bag slung over his shoulder, came in with a crutch during the meal.
Compared with it, provincial stuff is kvass . Try to imagine not merely Clicquot, but a sort of blend of Clicquot and Matradura Clicquot of double strength. Also Ponomarev produced a bottle of French stuff which he calls 'Bonbon. Had it a bouquet, ask you? Why, it had the bouquet of a rose garden, of anything else you like. What times we had, to be sure!
And it may be that Vassili was right. At all events, the brothers' peasantry were exceedingly well clad the women, in particular, having their head-dresses spangled with gold, and the sleeves of their blouses embroidered after the fashion of a Turkish shawl. "You see here the species of kvass for which our house has long been famous," said Vassili to Chichikov.
Thanks to the efforts of upwards of ten human beings counting laundresses, gardeners, cooks, kitchen-maids, butlers and footmen the table was sumptuously laid for eight, with silver waterjugs, decanters, kvass, wine, mineral waters, cut glass, and fine table linen, while two men-servants were continually hurrying to and fro, bringing in and serving, and then clearing away the hors d'oeuvre and the various hot and cold courses.
For my part, I am astonished that we do not see it. Not far from my estate this spring some moujiks were working on a railway embankment. You know what a peasant's food is, bread, kvass,* onions. With this frugal nourishment he lives, he is alert, he makes light work in the fields. But on the railway this bill of fare becomes cacha and a pound of meat.
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