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Compared with it, provincial stuff is kvass . Try to imagine not merely Clicquot, but a sort of blend of Clicquot and Matradura Clicquot of double strength. Also Ponomarev produced a bottle of French stuff which he calls 'Bonbon. Had it a bouquet, ask you? Why, it had the bouquet of a rose garden, of anything else you like. What times we had, to be sure!
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