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Updated: June 23, 2025
A noble church The tomb of Titian A painter-prince A lost garden Pomp and colour A ceaseless learner Canova Bellini's altar-piece The Pesaro Madonna The Frari cat Tombs vulgar and otherwise Francesco Foscari Niccolò Tron's beard. From S. Rocco to the Frari is but a step, and plenty of assistance in taking that step will be offered you by small boys.
At other times there breathed forth from his fingers a despair so mournful, so inconsolable, that one thought one saw Byron's Jacopo Foscari come to life again, and contemplated the extreme dejection of him who, dying of love for his country, preferred death to exile, being unable to endure the pain of leaving Venezia la bella!
In that case I shall come to you before, at the beginning of August. As soon as I have official news I shall write to you. In the meantime I must stay here. On April 8th, the birthday of the Grand Duchess, I have to conduct "I due Foscari" by Verdi, and at the end of April the performances of your niece Johanna.
"The lord of Pisa is dead," he said, "the woman has gone to the Convent of Murano; there is a head between the columns; Andrea Foscari will die of hunger in the hills yet Gian Mocenigo goes free. Who is this friar that he shall have the gift of life or death in Venice?" His subordinate answered "This friar, Captain, is one whom Venice, surely, will make the greatest of her nobles to-day."
And Francesco Foscari, who worked nobly for thirty-five years and wuz then abused shameful by the Ten and turned out of office. Them old Doges had their ups and downs; riz up to power, throwed down agin. Mean as the Old Harry, some on 'em, and some workin' well for the public.
What the Barberighi, the Foscari, the Grimaldi, the Giustiniani and the like, are there, the families of Stromer, Behaim, Im Hoff, Tucher, Kresz, Baumgartner, Pfinzing, Pukheimer, Holzschuher, and so forth, are with us; and the Schoppers certainly do not rank lowest on the list.
The largest of the three palaces became later the property of the Foscari family, and here dwelt with his father that unhappy Jacopo Foscari, who after thrice suffering torture by the state for a murder he never did, at last died in exile; hither came the old Doge Foscari, who had consented to this cruel error of the state, and who after a life spent in its service was deposed and disgraced before his death; and whither when he lay dead, came remorseful Venice, and claimed for sumptuous obsequies the dust which his widow yielded with bitter reproaches.
And those who pay the franc scarcely seem to reflect that princes and artists did not live and die in Italy to help young British or German couples over their honeymoon; that Dandolo and Foscari, Sansovino and Tintoretto, passed away with no suspicion of that latter-day trinity Bride, Bridegroom, and Baedeker. Strange that that which was so real to themselves is so romantic to us!
A plague which swept away fifty thousand lives was raging at the time, and there is notable evidence of the reverence in which the great painter was held, in the fact that to him alone the state permitted a public funeral in all that season of terror and death. In this church, also, is a monument to the doge Foscari, whose name a once resident of Venice, Lord Byron, has made permanently famous.
His fall was due to the political folly of his son Jacopo and the unpopularity of a struggle with Milan. He died in the famous Foscari palace on the Grand Canal and, in spite of his recent degradation, was given a Doge's funeral.
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