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Updated: June 23, 2025
Of these a great number are excellent in both intention and execution, and must be numbered among the educating, civilising, Christianising agencies of the day. They are something more and higher than the "savoury literary entremets" designed to please the fastidious taste of a cultured and leisured class, which was the just description of our periodical literature at large not so very long ago.
The ethereal delicacy of modern taste, the nice adjustment of flowers, the French style of cookery, was richly attended to; and the list was long of dishes with fantastic names, fish, fowl, and flesh; and entremets, and "sweets," as the English call them, and sugared cates, too numerous to think of.
FOUR ENTREMETS. Orange fritters; Tapioca pudding; Wine jelly; Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. TWO REMOVES. Roast fore-quarter of lamb; Spring chickens A la Montmorency. FOUR ENTREES. Fillets of ducklings, with green peas; Mutton cutlets a la Wyndham; Blanquette of chicken with cucumbers; Timbale of macaroni a la Milanaise. SECOND COURSE. Pigeons; Leveret. TWO REMOVES. Flemish gauffers; Iced Souffle.
There was the maitre d'hotel, or housekeeper, who attended to purchases and to storing the food; the chief cook, for soups, hors d'oeuvre, entrees, and entremets; the pastry-cook, with general charge of the oven; the roaster, who fattened the poultry and larded the meat before he put the turnspit dog into the wheel; an Italian confectioner for sweet dishes; and a butler to look after the wine.
And thou, most beautiful of all thou evening star of entremets thou that delightest in truffles, and gloriest in a dark cloud of sauces exquisite foie-gras! Have I forgotten thee? Do I not, on the contrary, see thee smell thee taste thee and almost die with rapture of thy possession?
Abdul Kader, the tailor who had attached himself to me, as a man ready-handed at all things, from mending a pair of pants, making a delicate entremets, or shooting an elephant, but whom the interior proved to be the weakliest of the weakly, unfit for anything except eating and drinking -almost succumbed on this march.
Beckett suggested dining in our own "parlour," as he called it. The landlord himself brought a menu, which Mother Beckett accepted indifferently up to the entremets "omelette au rhum." This she wished changed for something anything made with Jim's favourite jam.
Captain Cook dined with me to-day on a Black Rock dinner, viz. a fine piece of salmon and a nice little cochon-de-lait, with entremêts, removes, &c. The salmon was sent me with a basket of vegetables from Plymouth, I suspect from Captain Markham; the roaster was a present from Captain Hood, who, being under sail, could not dine with me. I mention these trifles because I know they please you.
FOUR ENTREMETS. Potatoes a la Duchesse; Blanc mange; Apple tartlets; Semolina pudding. MENU OF A FIRST RATE CHRISTMAS DINNER. Turtle soup; Turbot a la Vatel; Fillets of sole a la Tartare. THREE REMOVES. Roast turkey, Perigueux sauce; Braized ham a la jardiniere; Spiced round of beef.
"What's the use of loving or remembering anything?" he would exclaim "One loves one tires of love! and by-and-by one forgets that love ever existed. I look forward to the time when my memory shall dwell chiefly on the agreeable entremets of life a good dinner a choice cigar!
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