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How old, how Spanish, and how galleon the craft might really be, none could tell or would. But the sand-dabs were delicious; and from the queer window near her table a window cut in the ship's side she could see the Pacific, blue in distance, green where it tossed white foam-blossoms on a beach of gold.

It was the first time our theatrical friends had tasted sand-dabs, for this fish has come to San Francisco markets only in recent years, and they declared that it was the "only" fish fit to be eaten. It is possible that they were prejudiced by the sentiment of the surroundings and consequently not exactly in position to be good judges. All Italian restaurants serve fish well.

The automobile carried us then over to Broadway and at the Fior d'Italia our table was waiting and here we were served with sand-dabs au gratin, and a small glass of sauterne.

She threaded her way through a good-natured crowd of tall, tanned young Americans, pretty girls with wonderful erections of golden hair, dark-faced Mexicans, yellow-faced Japanese, a few Hindus and negroes. Then, by the pier, she saw an old Spanish galleon disguised as a restaurant, and drifted in to lunch on fried sand-dabs attractively advertised in big black letters.

At the New Buon Gusto you will find a most excellent cippino with polenti, and if you have not experienced this we advise you to try it as soon as possible. At the Gianduja you will find sand-dabs au gratin to be very fine. At Jack's, striped bass cooked in wine is what we think the best of the fish to be found in the market, or at the restaurants, cooked that way.

"I do think he might write from his ranch and acknowledge the money I sent him," she told herself now, neglecting the sand-dabs to stare through the galleon window at the floating seaweed on the tide-dark gold-green kelp, like lost laurel-wreaths torn from the brows of drowned divinities. "I posted the letter myself, that first day. He must have got it if he is at home."

The second is: Cold Fillet of Sand-Dabs, Palace Select six nice fresh sand-dabs. Raise the fillets from the bone skin and pare nicely, and season with salt and paprika. Arrange them in an earthenware dish. Cut in Julienne one stalk of celery, one green pepper, one cucumber, two or three tomatoes, depending on their size.

We had sand-dabs munier, chateaubriand with mushrooms, Italian squash, fried in oil with a flavor of garlic, French pastry, and coffee, together with some good California Tipo Chianti, all flavored with such a stream of reminiscence that we forgot that such things as clocks existed.

Success, modest but unfailing, attended it from the first appearance of the junior member of the firm at Coney Island, where, as the local cognoscenti still maintain, he revolutionized the art and practice of the "sand-dabs." Out of the joint takings grew a bank account. Eventually Peter Quick Banta came to me about the boy's education. "He's a swell," said Peter Quick Banta. "Look at that face!

Bisque of Ecrevisse Chablis, or White Sauterne Sand-dabs Edward VII Sliced Cucumbers, Iced Escargot Francais Chateau Lafitte Cassolette of Terrapin, Maryland Romanee Tagliarini des Beaux Arts Punch Pistache Cigarettes Alligator Pears with Cumquats, French Dressing Chicken Portola Krug Private Cuvee Brut Creamed New Potatoes Celery Victor French Peas Zabaione Reina Cabot Coffee Royal Cigarettes