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Commence crossing the Hamadah Last Pillar of the Romans Travelling in the Desert Rapid March Merry Blacks Dawn Temperature Ali returns Day-travelling Night-feelings Animals Graves of Children Mirage Extent of the Plateau It breaks up Valley of El-Hasee Farewell to the Hamadah Arduous Journey The Camel-drivers New Country Moral and religious Disquisitions The Chaouches Reach Edree Abd-el-Galeel Description of Edree Subterranean Dwellings Playing at Powder The Kaïd Arabic Literature Desertion of the Zintanah Leave Edree Sandy Desert Bou Keta the Camel-driver Wady El-Makmak The Lizard Reach Wady Takadafah Sand Another Embroglio.

More quarrels! The chaouches are boiling over again; they must fight it out between them. No doubt they are both correct in exchanging the epithet of "thief." Scarcely has the grumbling of these two terrible fellows died away, when the blacks are at it amongst themselves. He who has two wives gets hold of his blunderbuss, and threatens to blow himself to pieces.

They were a little rude at first, but made some compensation in the evening by sending us a good supply of meat and fresh bread to our tents. To our surprise, we saw nothing of our chaouches here; and on making inquiries, we found that they were not with the caravan. They were known to have pushed on ahead, impatient to arrive.

Even in the desert one is often judged by the livery of one's servants. The individuals next in importance to Moknee are, perhaps, the Chaouches, as they are called here Arab cavaliers, who are to act as janissaries. There is one big fellow for me, and one little fellow for the Germans. How they will behave remains to be seen; but I suspect they will give us some trouble.

I asked what was the matter, and was told briefly that some of the canaille of our escort had carried away a bale of Dr. Barth's goods, but that the chief had made them restore the greater part of the spoil. In the first moments I could not help laughing. It was certainly comical to be robbed by one's own escort. We had now thirty-one chaouches for two whom we obtained in Tripoli.

More sandy Desert Fatiguing March Water and Herbage Water-drinking Sight the Plateau over the Mourzuk Hot Wind Arrival in El-Wady Tuaricks Laghareefah Fezzanees The Chaouches astray The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady Description of the Oasis Tempest Native Huts Official Visits Desert News Camel-drivers Ruins of Azerna Move on The Kaïd Modest Requests Ladies of the Wady Leave the Oasis Vast Plain Instinct of the Camel Reach Agar Reception Precede the Caravan Reach Mourzuk Mr.

My arrival had been announced by the chaouches, who had gone on about a quarter of an hour before; and at the eastern gate the soldiers allowed me to pass without notice, or any allusion to gumruk. Mr. Gagliuffi had come out to meet me; but having taken a different gate we crossed, and I arrived on my camel at his house, and found it empty.

However, the chaouches must, of course, get up a quarrel now and then: they do it between themselves; but, as a sign that they likewise are a little civilised, have only had two regular explosions to-day.

During our stay, we heard this jolly fellow entertaining the chaouches and his own horsemen with a description of the ladies of the Wady, who had no reason to be flattered by his account. And yet he seems to have married one himself: hinc illæ lachrymæ, perhaps. My chaouch had already given me a confirmation of these libels, and was evidently greatly delighted by this testimony to his exactitude.