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Updated: June 16, 2025
A smiling young woman opened it, of whom I asked the name of the house. "Ty Nant the House of the Dingle," she replied. "Do you live alone?" said I. "No; mother lives here." "Any Saesneg?" "No," said she with a smile, "S'sneg of no use here." Her face looked the picture of kindness. I was now indeed in Wales amongst the real Welsh. I went on some way.
She then went to John Jones, and told him in English that he might attend us, provided he took off his shoes; poor John, however, only smiled and said "Dim Saesneg!" "You must speak to him in your native language," said I, "provided you wish him to understand you he has no English."
"'Hafren a Wy yn hyfryd eu wedd A Rheidol vawr ei anrhydedd. Good rhyme, sir, that. I wish you would put it into Saesneg." "I am afraid I shall make a poor hand of it," said I; "however, I will do my best: "'Oh pleasantly do glide along the Severn and the Wye; But Rheidol's rough, and yet he's held by all in honour high. "Very good rhyme that, sir! though not so good as the pennill Cymraeg.
Of all the hills which I saw in Wales none made a greater impression upon me. Towards evening I arrived at a very small and pretty village in the middle of which was a tollgate. Seeing an old woman seated at the door of the gate-house I asked her the name of the village. "I have no Saesneg!" she screamed out. "I have plenty of Cumraeg," said I, and repeated my question.
She addressed me in very imperfect English, saying that she was the mistress of the house and should be happy to show me about. I thanked her for her offer, and told her that she might speak Welsh, whereupon she looked glad, and said in that tongue that she could speak Welsh much better than Saesneg.
A woman passed me going towards Rhiwabon; I pointed to the ridge and asked its name; I spoke English. The woman shook her head and replied "Dim Saesneg." "This is as it should be," said I to myself; "I now feel I am in Wales." I repeated the question in Welsh. "Cefn Bach," she replied which signifies the little ridge. "Diolch iti," I replied, and proceeded on my way.
I seemed to be its only traveller a wall extended for a long, long way on my left. At length I came to a turnpike. I felt desolate and wished to speak to somebody. I tapped at the window, at which there was a light; a woman opened it. "How far to Holyhead?" said I in English. "Dim Saesneg," said the woman. I repeated my question in Welsh. "Two miles," said she.
The day after, finding myself on the banks of the Dee in the upper part of the valley, I determined to examine the Llam Lleidyr or Robber's Leap, which I had heard spoken of on a former occasion. A man passing near me with a cart I asked him where the Robber's Leap was. I spoke in English, and with a shake of his head he replied "Dim Saesneg."
Finding she had no Saesneg I repeated the question in Welsh, whereupon she told me that it was called Pentre Voelas. "And whom does the 'Plas' belong to yonder amongst the groves?" said I. "It belongs to Mr Wynn, sir, and so does the village and a great deal of the land about here.
"Have you any English?" said I, addressing the boy in Welsh. "Dim gair," said the boy; "not a word; there is no Saesneg near here." "What is the name of this place?" "The name of our house is Helyg." "And what is the name of that hill?" said I, pointing to the hill of the precipice. "Allt y Gog the high place of the cuckoo." "Have you a father and mother?" "We have." "Are they in the house?"
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