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Updated: June 28, 2025
Gagliuffi, had never visited the grave before my arrival, which I proposed to him as a sacred duty that we owed to our predecessors in African travel and discovery. The Consul promises now to have the grave repaired and white-washed, and I, on my part, promise, in the event of my return to the interior, to carry with me a small tombstone, to place over the grave, with name, date, and epitaph.
Gagliuffi and the Doctor accompanied me outside the gates, and the Consul's Moorish servant conducted me to the first night's encampment, both of us riding horses. I do not regret turning off the direct route to Tripoli, and visiting Mourzuk before my return.
We knew already that all the tribes and sheikhs were jealous of our escort. I must renew my application to Gagliuffi for the restitution of the property of the British Government; if not, the people who form the proposed razzia will divide it amongst themselves. 26th. En-Noor has sent me word this morning that I may make myself quite at home in his city, and have nothing whatsoever to fear.
Gagliuffi observes: "You would not have had so much attention paid to you in Tripoli." Possibly; but this may partly be accounted for by the rarity of Europeans at Mourzuk. Familiarity has not had time to breed contempt. 11th. There is excitement in the town. What news? The new acting Governor, my old acquaintance of Ghadamez, Rais Mustapha, is in sight, hull above the horizon.
This holy person is quite humanized, and talks freely of the politics of the Barbary coast. He entertained myself, the German, the Greek doctor, and Gagliuffi with tea; and this at sunset, when all the other pilgrims were at their prayers. He is a Tuatee of Gharai, and has been many times to Mekka in his present capacity. Indeed he makes the journey about once every three years.
I tasted it, and found it not a bad shrimp. The locust requires salt and oil to make it palatable. I find in this part of my journal several anecdotes of the Bashaw of Mourzuk and Mr. Gagliuffi, which seem to have come to my recollection en route. But I am well, therefore the Sultan of the Turks is well; and if I am not well, then the Sultan of the Turks is not well."
Sickness of Gagliuffi Baggage left at Mizdah Runthar Aga The Hospital Various Visits Arrival of the New Governor Animated Scene Correspondence Visit Mustapha Agha Bragging Sheikh Boro Tibboos of Tibesty Curious Country Presents to Turkish Functionaries A Woman divorced Haj Lameen Presents expected Brilliant Atmosphere Water-Melons The Gardens Winnowing Grain Houses of Salt Mud Nymphs of the Gardens Wells Presents to Functionaries Phrenology Queen's Birthday Walks in the Orchards and Gardens Corn-threshing Kingdom of Aheer Ass's Head A Wedding A Funeral Great Dinner Tibboos Prepare to depart The Pilgrim Caravan; its Privileges Tuat and the French Departure of Germans Wife of Es-Sfaxee An Arab Saying Letters Disease Arrival of Escort Eastern Consulates Business Hateetah The Son of Shafou Poor Sheikhs Hard Bargain.
Meet Angelo, who conducts me to his Master, the British Vice-Consul. Hearty Welcome from Mr. Gagliuffi. Detail of the Slave-Caravans of The Wady. Read the Newspapers; Massacre of Jemâ-el-Ghazouat, and the Annexation of Texas. Visit to the Bashaw of Mourzuk. Visits to the Commandant of the Garrison and the Kady. Poetical Scrap of European Antiquity. Celebration of a Wedding. Environs of Mourzuk.
He had under his care the Denham and Clapperton caravan, and is well acquainted with us English. I was surprised to find the Kady quite black, although his features were not altogether Negro. Mr. Gagliuffi says Mourzuk is the first Negro country. This statement, however, involves a very difficult question.
The reader will agree with me, after hearing further of the Touaricks, that these free sons of The Sahara have every right to say to Mr. Hodgson, and all American Consuls "Physician, heal thyself: do not charge us with men-stealing when you buy and sell and rob human beings of their liberty." I speak on the authority of Mr. Gagliuffi, our Vice-Consul at Mourzuk.
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