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Updated: June 7, 2025
Small wonder that he is a valuable beast to the Laplander, who, however, repays him only with blows and lashes. Farther south, on the Hardanger Fjeld and elsewhere, herds of tame reindeer have now been established by Norwegian companies as a new industry. Lapps are hired to look after them, and the meat is sold in great quantities in many parts of Europe, especially in Paris.
At its extremity, a mile or more distant, rose a light cloud of vapour, seeming close at hand in the thin mountain air. The thick, spongy soil, not more than two feet deep, rests on a solid bed of rock, the entire Hardanger Fjeld, in fact, is but a single rock, and is therefore always swampy. But at last, we approached the wreath of whirling spray, and heard the hollow roar of the Vöring-Foss.
Squeak, crack-squeak, crack-squeak, crack at regular intervals from the great spreading snow-shoes of the Storbuk, and the steady sough of his breath was like the Nordland as she passes up the Hardanger Fjord. High up, on the smooth road to the left, they could hear the jingle of the horse-bells and the shouting of Borgrevinck's driver, who, under orders, was speeding hard for Nystuen.
And it is the weight of all this fresh snow on the top of the accumulation of centuries which produces the glaciers. The Folgefond, in the Hardanger district, is the snowfield which most people who visit Norway see sooner or later, and since it covers an area of 120 square miles, at a height of about 5,500 feet above the sea, it is visible from a great many points of view.
All that is grand, all that is beautiful, will be found in the Hardanger the "Smiling Hardanger," as the Norwegians themselves call it; and even if an English visitor went nowhere else, he would have seen typical Norwegian scenery of every possible kind. The easiest way to go there is from Bergen, and most people bent on a tour in Norway make a start either from Christiania or from Bergen.
"Vera Nugent and her boy, and perhaps Lord Considine. He is going to ask Laurence and Mabel and all the boys too." "It will be a kind of school-treat," said James. "I own it doesn't sound very exciting. Where are we to go to?" "To Norway. He knows of a house on the Hardanger Fiord, a house in a wood. He wants to hire a steamer to take us up from Bergen, and means to bring a motor-boat with him.
Beyond this there was no road for carrioles, and we accordingly gave ours in charge of a bright, active and intelligent little postmaster, twelve years old. He and his mother then rowed us across the lake to the village of Graven, whence there was a bridle-road across the mountains to a branch of the Hardanger Fjord.
Glad of him she certainly was, amused by his audacities; but not tempted to plunge. He saw very soon that he must be careful with her. A reference to the Hardanger woods at night, to the absence of nightingales, absence of the dark she veiled her eyes with blankness, and finally shut down the topic. "Don't let's talk of what is not in Norway. Tell me what is there.
So, when we had traversed the upper land for several miles, we came to a brink overlooking another branch of the lower land, and descended through thick woods to the farms of Ulvik, on the Eyfjord, an arm of the Hardanger. The shores were gloriously beautiful; slopes of dazzling turf inclosed the bright blue water, and clumps of oak, ash, and linden, in park-like groups, studded the fields.
Then, at Tinoset, instead of turning his steps toward the south that is to say, in the direction of Bamble he hired another kariol, and took the Hardanger route, in order to reach the gulf of that name in the shortest possible time.
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