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Updated: June 14, 2025
He asked Zoega a thousand questions about the "gentleman," and begged that we would dismount and do him the honor to take a cup of coffee, which his wife would prepare for us in five minutes. Knowing by experience that five minutes in Iceland means any time within five hours, I was reluctantly obliged to decline the invitation.
Judging by the eruptions of the Strokhr, I should say he feeds exclusively on fire and water, which would ruin the best stomach in the world." Zoega looked troubled. He evidently did not comprehend my figurative style of speech. So the conversation dropped. The column of water ejected from the Strokhr, unlike that of the Great Geyser, is tall and slender, and of almost inky blackness.
The others are behind the first rise of ground." "That may be, Zoega. I have no doubt they are very fine, but it is not within the bounds of possibility that they should equal the Geysers of California." "Indeed, sir! I didn't know you had Geysers there." "Didn't know it! Never heard of the Geysers of California?" "Never, sir." "Well, Zoega, that is remarkable.
Whenever our loose horses got off the trail or lagged behind, the services of our dog were invaluable. Zoega had a particular way of directing his attention to the errant animal. "Hur-r-r-r! Backing of ears to frighten him, or kicks at his head, had no terrors for him; he was altogether too sagacious to be caught within reach of dangerous weapons.
At the appointed hour, 6 A.M., Zoega was ready at the door of the hotel with his shaggy cavalcade, which surely was the most extraordinary spectacle I had ever witnessed. The horned horses of Africa would have been commonplace objects in comparison with these remarkable animals destined to carry me to the Geysers of Iceland.
Zoega had promised to be back by eight o'clock; but eight o'clock in Iceland, on the 21st of June, is a late hour of the day. A treatise on trigonometry might be written between sunrise and that unapproachable hour. The only thing I could do was to make some more tea and eat a preliminary breakfast.
For all I could judge, it was smoke from some settler's cabin situated in a hollow of the slope. "What's that, Zoega?" I asked. "That's the Geysers, sir," he replied, as coolly as if it were the commonest thing in the world to see the famous Geysers of Iceland. "The Geysers! That little thing the Geysers?" "Yes, sir." "Dear me! who would ever have thought it?"
Wishing to see as much of the island as possible during the short time at my disposal, I made application to young Jonasen for information in regard to a guide, and through his friendly aid secured the services of Geir Zoega, a man of excellent reputation.
It then subsided into fitful and convulsive jets, as if making a last effort, and finally disappeared with a deep growl of disappointment. All was now quiet save the gurgling of the murky water as it sought its way back. Zoega said it was not done yet that this was only a beginning.
"Oh, but wait, sir, till you see the Great Geyser; that's much better than the Strokhr." "Doubtless it is very fine, Zoega. Still I can't help but think our California Geysers are in a superior condition of health. It is true they smoke a good deal, but I don't think they impair their digestion by such stimulating food as the Geysers of Iceland.
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