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He boasted of the independence of his people, who number three thousand strong, and extend their influence as far south as Ghareeah. The name of the tribe is derived, he tells us, from a great warrior who once lived, and was named by the people Bou Seif, because he always carried a sword. Our chaouch gave us an account of this young man in the following strain: "He is in very deed a marabout!
Men usually carry their "black cares" along with them in this way. As we could not expect to commence the traject of the dreaded plateau immediately, I resolved to go upon a visit to the village of Western Ghareeah. The camel-drivers of the caravan, of course, told us that it was at the distance of one hour Saha bas! but we found it to be three hours in a north-east direction.
This may also be emphatically called the region of rain. 3d zone. The limestone hills and broad valleys, gradually assuming the aridity of the Sahara as you proceed southward, between the town of Kaleebah and Ghareeah; the olive plantations and corn-fields disappear, entirely in this tract. 4th zone. The Hamadah, an immense desert plateau, separating Tripoli from Fezzan. 5th zone.
Time is of little consequence in the desert, and no means are possessed or desired of measuring it with exactitude. It has already been observed by a traveller, that the Bedawin will describe as near an object a hundred yards off, or a well two days' journey from you. Western Ghareeah was likewise described as grayeb, but we thought for some time that we had ventured upon an interminable desert.
The only object of those who wield paramount authority over them seems to be to extract money in the most vexatious and expeditious manner. I purchased of the people of Ghareeah a greyhound bitch for four Tunisian piastres, so that we may now expect some hares and gazelles.
Ghareeah Gharbeeah stands on the brow of a limestone rock, on the western side of a valley, which we had to cross in approaching between date plantations and a few fields of barley. It was an ancient Roman city; and there remains still an almost perfect bas-relief of a Victoria on one side of the eastern gateway, which is composed of limestone blocks a foot and a half square.
Leave Mizdah Gloomy Country Matrimonial Squabbles in the Caravan "Playing at Powder" Desert Geology A Roman Mausoleum Sport A Bully tamed Fatiguing March Wady Taghijah Our old Friend the Ethel-Tree The Waled Bou Seif Independent Arabs A splendid Mausoleum One of the Nagahs foals Division of a Goat March over a monotonous Country Valley of Amjam Two new Trees Saluting the New Moon Sight the Plateau of the Hamadah Wady Tubooneeah Travelling Flies The Desert Hour A secluded Oasis Buying Barley Ghareeah Roman Remains Oasian Cultivation Taxation Sand-Pillar Arrangements for crossing the Hamadah An Emeute in the Caravan Are compelled to discharge the quarrelsome Ali.
With the exception of the little valley we had crossed, nothing could be seen from Ghareeah but a dreary waste, especially to the south and east. A tower of modern date rises to the east, on a solitary rock; and we knew that Eastern Ghareeah was concealed among the hills at a distance of six hours. The inhabitants of these secluded towns are called Waringab, and promise shortly to become extinct.
To spare one's self is the great secret of Saharan travelling; and there is, after all, not much to observe in this desolate region. I should mention, that the second night Ali came up in a penitent state along with a khafilah from Ghareeah, and so our poor black women had an opportunity of getting a lift on the spare camels.
In this Western Ghareeah there are twenty heads of families, but very few children, scarce sixty souls altogether; and the population of the other place, which gives itself airs of metropolitan importance, is not more than double. How they have not abandoned the place long ago to jackals and hawks is a mystery.
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