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Updated: May 6, 2025
Let us take a glance at this subject in passing. An inhabitant of Anjer owner of a hotel, a ship-chandler's store, two houses, and a dozen boats went down to the beach about six on the morning of that fateful 27th of August. He had naturally been impressed by the night of the 26th, though, accustomed as he was to volcanic eruptions, he felt no apprehensions as to the safety of the town.
"We can't be far from Anjer, and I fear the big waves that have already passed us have done some damage. Lower a lantern over the side, no, fetch an empty tar-barrel and let's have a flare. That will enable us to see things better." While the barrel was being fastened to a spar so as to be thrust well out beyond the side of the brig, Van der Kemp descended the companion and opened the cabin door.
The inscription informs the stranger, that Dr. died here on his return from China, after the wreck of the Alceste. This tomb was the first thing that attracted my attention when I landed at Anjer in 1823, and has ever since been an object of interest to me.
Some days after the wreck of the Sunshine, as described in a previous chapter, Captain Roy and his son stood on the coast of Java not far from the ruins of Anjer. A vessel was anchored in the offing, and a little boat lay on the shore.
The detonations appeared, indeed, to come from the direction of Krakatoa; but from Serang, Anjer, and Merak, localities situated much nearer Krakatoa than Batavia, the telegraph announced that neither detonations nor atmospheric vibrations had been perceived. The distance between Batavia and Krakatoa is ninety-three English miles.
Just then there burst upon their ears the yell of a steam-whistle, and a few moments later a steamer bore straight down on them, astern. "Steamer ahoy!" shouted Van der Kemp. "Will ye throw us a rope?" "Ay! ay! ease 'er! stop 'er! where are 'ee bound for?" demanded an unmistakably English voice. "Krakatoa!" replied the hermit. "Where are you?" "Anjer, on the Java coast.
"Of the 3,500 Europeans and Americans in Batavia which for several hours was in darkness, owing to the fall of ashes 800 perished at Anjer.
Some of his methods may not commend themselves to us in these more humane and enlightened days, any more than they were approved by his great English successor, Sir Stamford Raffles, such, for instance, as his construction of the post-road from Anjer Head to Banjoewangi, a distance of over 700 miles, at the cost of from twelve to twenty thousand lives; but it is not always easy to estimate at a distance of a hundred years the peculiar difficulties and conditions under which European Governors administered an oriental Colony.
During my last ramble in the vicinity of Anjer, I observed some natives at work in a plantation of young plants which, at first sight, and from their being sheltered from the sun by tall, wild-cotton trees, I took for coffee. On inquiring of the overseer, and looking more closely at the plants, I found they were young cinnamon-trees.
"Mum's the word; and we've only got to say she's goin' to visit one of your old friends in Anjer which'll be quite true, you know, for the landlady o' the chief hotel there is a great friend o' yours, and we'll take Kathy to her straight. Besides, the trip will do her health a power o' good, though I'm free to confess it don't need no good to be done to it, bein' A.1 at the present time.
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