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Updated: June 6, 2025
By some instinct the yaks turned to the left before the danger point was reached, but the band nevertheless rushed forward in rage, and to the gratification of our party, they were so close together that aiming for the thick of the pursuers was sufficient to assure a mark for each shot. They did not heed the fallen, or wait to care for them, but rushed on and endeavored to head off the yaks.
Towards the summit of the pass the snow lay very deep, and we followed the course of a small stream which cut through it, the walls of snow being breast-high on each side; the path was still frequented by yaks, of which we overtook a small party going to Tibet, laden with planks.
Our yaks got loose, and we had difficulty in recovering them in the morning. They had swum across the stream, and had gone about a mile on the other side. The night had been very cold, the thermometer dropping as low as 32-1/2°. We did not pitch our little tent, as we wanted to be ready in case of attack. We were tired and cold after the long march of the previous day.
The people export apricot oil, dried apricots, sheep's wool, heavy undyed woollens, a coarse cloth made from yaks' hair, and pashm, the under fleece of the shawl goat. They complained, and I think with good reason, of the merciless exactions of the Kashmiri officials, but there were no evidences of severe poverty, and not one beggar was seen. It was not an easy matter to get back to Leh.
As a signal for departure white silk scarfs were thrown over our shoulders, according to the established custom in Tibet, Sikkim, and Bhotan; and presents were made to us of China silks, bricks of tea, woollen cloths, yaks, ponies, and salt, with worked silk purses and fans for Mrs. Campbell; after which we left. The whole scene was novel and very curious.
He seems rather out of place, neither guarding nor keeping the party together, but he knows that neither yaks, sheep, nor goats, require his attention; all are perfectly tame, so he takes his share of work as salt-carrier by day, and watches by night as well. The children bring up the rear, laughing and chatting together; they, too, have their loads, even to the youngest that can walk alone.
It was now nearing night, and they were fully ten miles from home. Ten miles is not a long tramp, but to travelers like ours, already weary with their trudging and with the excitements of the day, it was concluded to camp in the wagon for the night, and then proceed home early in the morning. To take the wagon would be an impossibility. They really learned to love the patient yaks.
There were small patches of soft earth with tufts of grass which rose above the water, but they collapsed on our attempting to stand upon them. The whole of the northern part of the plain was extremely marshy. Our yaks gave us no end of trouble.
From Choombi to Lhassa is fifteen days' long journeys for a man mounted on a stout mule; all the rice passing through Phari is monopolised there for the Chinese troops at Lhassa. The grazing for yaks and small cattle is excellent in Choombi, and the Pinus excelsa is said to grow abundantly there, though unknown in Sikkim, but I have not heard of any other peculiarity in its productions.
As it was, one wheel had locked with a tree, and the yaks, by their tremendous power, had broken the parts mentioned and gone on. Before the wagon was reached, however, numbers of articles were found scattered along the trail, which were gathered up. The finding of the wagon was an intense relief.
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