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Updated: June 6, 2025


"As we are so near the falls, why not go there, and possibly the sight of it may recall something to John?" George and Harry looked at the Professor for an inkling of his reason for the remark, but he appeared not to notice them. As the distance was not great, the course was directed along the very trail that the runaway yaks had taken from the river some months before.

The outer walls are usually whitewashed, and red, yellow, and brown wooden buildings, broad bands of red and blue on the whitewash, tridents, prayer-mills, yaks' tails, and flags on poles give colour and movement, while the jangle of cymbals, the ringing of bells, the incessant beating of big drums and gongs, and the braying at intervals of six-foot silver horns, attest the ritualistic activities of the communities within.

The yaks were hitched up shortly after breakfast, and the long, sloping descent began. Angel was ahead swinging from tree to tree, and before they had proceeded a mile began chattering from the tree top, in his peculiar way betokening alarm. George ran up, called him down, and started forward.

John was requested by sign to go to the forward end, and he promptly responded, and at every shot one of the pursuers went down. The main object was to keep them away from the team a sufficient distance to prevent injury to the yaks, and this required the greatest energy and watchfulness.

Enormous masses of rock were continually precipitated from the west side, close to the shed in which I had taken up my quarters, keeping my people in constant alarm, and causing a great commotion among the yaks, dogs, and ponies. On the opposite side of the river is a deep gorge; in which an immense glacier descends lower than any I have seen in Sikkim.

Geological causes of phenomena in valley Scenery of valley on descent. I returned to the village of Wallanchoon, after collecting all the plants I could around my camp; amongst them a common-looking dock abounded in the spots which the yaks had frequented. The ground was covered, as with heather, with abundance of creeping dwarf juniper, Andromeda, and dwarf rhododendron.

Harry and George kept them interested a great portion of the time with stories of their adventures. They told about the bear fight for the possession of the honey; the shooting of the wild animals in South Forest, the making of the flag, the capture of the yaks, the flagpole incident, the fight between the bulls, and the amusing affair connected with the removal of the yaks to their new home.

"One side of the wagon body could be made to be let down, so as to form a protection below the body of the wagon. Within that enclosure the yaks could be stationed, if we should be attacked, and for the purpose of defense, four of us would be within the enclosure and two in the wagon to protect it from that side. The plan, so ingeniously contrived, pleased the fancy of the boys.

The full moon soared like a silvery white balloon just above the top of the mountain, and I left the tent to enjoy this never-to-be-forgotten spectacle. The glacier below us lay in shadow in its deep bed, but the snow-fields were dazzling white. The yaks stood out jet black against the snow, their nostrils steaming, and the snow crunching under them.

Among their rude plenishings are large stone corn chests like sarcophagi, stone bowls from Baltistan, cauldrons, cooking pots, a tripod, wooden bowls, spoons, and dishes, earthen pots, and yaks' and sheep's packsaddles. The garments of the household are kept in long wooden boxes. Family life presents some curious features.

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