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I was premature in complaining of my Wallanchoon tents, those provided for me at Yangma being infinitely worse, mere rags, around which I piled sods as a defence from the insidious piercing night-wind that descended from the northern glaciers in calm, but most keen, breezes. There was no food to be procured in the village, except a little watery milk, and a few small watery potatos.
On the 29th November, I continued my course north up the Yangma valley, which after five miles opened considerably, the trees disappearing, and the river flowing more tranquilly, and through a broader valley, when above 11,000 feet elevation. The Guobah of Wallanchoon overtook us on the road; on his way, he said, to collect the revenues at Yangma village, but in reality to see what I was about.
The Wallanchoon road follows the west bank, but the bridge above having been carried away, we crossed by a plank, and proceeded along very steep banks of decomposed chlorite schist, much contorted, and very soapy, affording an insecure footing, especially where great landslips had occurred, which were numerous, exposing acres of a reddish and white soil of felspathic clay, sloping at an angle of 30 degrees.
Difficulty in procuring leave to enter Sikkim Obtain permission to travel in East Nepal Arrangements Coolies Stores Servants Personal equipment Mode of travelling Leave Dorjiling Goong ridge Behaviour of Bhotan coolies Nepal frontier Myong valley Ilam Sikkim massacre Cultivation Nettles Camp at Nanki on Tonglo Bhotan coolies run away View of Chumulari Nepal peaks to west Sakkiazung Buceros Road to Wallanchoon Oaks Scarcity of water Singular view of mountain-valleys Encampment My tent and its furniture Evening occupations Dunkotah Crossridge of Sakkiazung Yews Silver-firs View of Tambur valley Pemmi river Pebbly terraces Geology Holy springs Enormous trees Luculia gratissima Khawa river, rocks of Arrive at Tambur Shingle and gravel terraces Natives, indolence of Canoe ferry Votive offerings Bad road Temperature, etc.
Lichens Poa annua and Shepherd's purse Tibet camp Tuquoroma Scenery of pass Glaciers and snow Summit Plants, woolly, etc. On the 18th November, we left Mywa Guola, and continued up the river to the village of Wallanchoon or Walloong, which was reached in six marches. I crossed the Mewa, an affluent from the north, by another excellent suspension bridge.
I arrived at the village of Wallanchoon on the 23rd of November.
Return from Wallanchoon pass Procure a bazaar at village Dance of Lamas Blacking face, Tibetan custom of Temple and convent Leave for Kanglachem pass Send part of party back to Dorjiling Yangma Guola Drunken Tibetans Guobah of Wallanchoon Camp at foot of Great Moraine View from top Geological speculations Height of moraines Cross dry lake-bed Glaciers More moraines Terraces Yangma temples Jos, books and furniture Peak of Nango Lake Arrive at village Cultivation Scenery Potatos State of my provisions Pass through village Gigantic boulders Terraces Wild sheep Lake-beds Sun's power Piles of gravel and detritus Glaciers and moraines Pabuk, elevation of Moonlight scene Return to Yangma Temperature, etc.
Geological causes of phenomena in valley Scenery of valley on descent. I returned to the village of Wallanchoon, after collecting all the plants I could around my camp; amongst them a common-looking dock abounded in the spots which the yaks had frequented. The ground was covered, as with heather, with abundance of creeping dwarf juniper, Andromeda, and dwarf rhododendron.
We could make no further progress; the pass lay at the distance of several hours' march, up a valley to the north, down which the glacier must have rolled that had deposited this great moraine; the pass had been closed since October, it being very lofty, and the head of this valley was far more snowy than that at Wallanchoon.
A large flock of sheep and goats, laden with salt, overtook us here on their route from Wallanchoon to Yalloong. The sheep I observed to feed on the Rhododendron Thomsoni and campylocarpum. December 5. The morning was bright and clear, and we left early for the Choonjerma pass.
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