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Updated: May 13, 2025
I have never before or since seen anything, which for sublimity, beauty, and marvellous effects, could compare with what I gazed on that evening from Choonjerma pass.
A large flock of sheep and goats, laden with salt, overtook us here on their route from Wallanchoon to Yalloong. The sheep I observed to feed on the Rhododendron Thomsoni and campylocarpum. December 5. The morning was bright and clear, and we left early for the Choonjerma pass.
The marches between them are as follows: 1. To Yalloong two days; crossing Kanglanamo pass, 15,000 feet high. 3. To foot of Choonjerma pass, descending to 10,000 feet. 4. Cross Choonjerma pass, 15,260 feet, and proceed to Kambachen, 11,400 feet. 5. Cross Nango pass, 15,770, and camp on Yangma river, 11,000 feet. 6. Ascend to foot of Kanglachem pass, and camp at 15,000 feet. 7.
The Yangma valley was quite hidden, but to the eastward the view across the stupendous gorge of the Kambachen, 5000 feet below, to the waste of snow, ice, and rock, piled in confusion along the top of the range of Junnoo and Choonjerma, parallel to this but higher, was very grand indeed: this we were to cross in two days, and its appearance was such, that our guide doubted the possibility of our doing it.
Ascend to Nango mountain Moraines Glaciers Vegetation Rhododendron Hodgsoni Rocks Honey-combed surface of snow Perpetual snow Top of pass View Elevation Geology Distance of sound Plants Temperature Scenery Cliffs of granite and hurled boulders Camp Descent Pheasants Larch Himalayan pines Distribution of Deodar, note on Tassichooding temples Kambachen village Cultivation Moraines in valley, distribution of Picturesque lake-beds, and their vegetation Tibetan sheep and goats Cryptogramma crispa Ascent to Choonjerma pass View of Junnoo Rocks of its summit Misty ocean Nepal peaks Top of pass Temperature, and observations Gorgeous sunset Descent to Yalloong valley Loose path Night scenes Musk deer.
The villagers received us very kindly, and furnished us with a guide for the Choonjerma pass, leading to the Yalloong valley, the most easterly in Nepal; but he recommended our not attempting any part of the ascent till the morrow, as it was past 1 p.m., and we should find no camping-ground for half the way up.
Crossing the river, we first made a considerable descent, and then ascended a ridge to 5,750 feet, through a thick jungle of Camellia, Eurya, and small oak: from the top I obtained bearings of Yalloong and Choonjerma pass, and had also glimpses of the Kinchin range through a tantalizing jungle; after which a very winding and fatiguing up-and-down march southwards brought us to the village of Khabang, in the magnificent valley of the Tawa, about 800 feet above the river, and 5,500 feet above the sea.
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