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In the first place, the Guobah disputed the Nepal rajah's authority to pass me through his dominions; and besides the natural jealousy of these people when intruded upon, they have very good reasons for concealing the amount of revenue they raise from their position, and for keeping up the delusion that they alone can endure the excessive climate of these regions, or undergo the hardships and toil of the salt trade.
Return from Wallanchoon pass Procure a bazaar at village Dance of Lamas Blacking face, Tibetan custom of Temple and convent Leave for Kanglachem pass Send part of party back to Dorjiling Yangma Guola Drunken Tibetans Guobah of Wallanchoon Camp at foot of Great Moraine View from top Geological speculations Height of moraines Cross dry lake-bed Glaciers More moraines Terraces Yangma temples Jos, books and furniture Peak of Nango Lake Arrive at village Cultivation Scenery Potatos State of my provisions Pass through village Gigantic boulders Terraces Wild sheep Lake-beds Sun's power Piles of gravel and detritus Glaciers and moraines Pabuk, elevation of Moonlight scene Return to Yangma Temperature, etc.
I had calculated upon a good night's rest here, which I much needed, having been worried and unwell at Wallanchoon, owing to the Guobah's obstinacy. I had not then learnt how to treat such conduct, and just before retiring to rest had further been informed by the Havildar that the Guobah declared we should find no food on our return.
Leave Mywa Suspension bridge Landslips Vegetation Slope of riverbed Bees' nests Glacial phenomena Tibetans, clothing, ornaments, amulets, salutation, children, dogs Last Limboo village, Taptiatok Beautiful scenery Tibet village of Lelyp Opuntia Edgeworthia Crab-apple Chameleon and porcupine Praying machine Abies Brunoniana European plants Grand scenery Arrive at Wallanchoon Scenery around Trees Tibet houses Manis and Mendongs Tibet household Food Tea-soup Hospitality Yaks and Zobo, uses and habits of Bhoteeas Yak-hair tents Guobah of Walloong Jhatamansi Obstacles to proceeding Climate and weather Proceed Rhododendrons, etc.
Some of them fell sick; the Guobah swore that the passes were full of snow, and had been impracticable since October; and the Ghorka Havildar respectfully deposed that he had no orders relative to the pass.
On arriving at the village, I refused to receive the Guobah, unless he opened a bazaar at daylight on the following morning, where my people might purchase food; and threatened to bring charges against him before his Rajah. I walked up to the convents, which were long ugly buildings, several stories high, built of wood, and daubed with red and grey paint.
After a good many conferences with the Guobah, some bullying, douce violence, persuasions, and the prescribing of pills, prayers, and charms in the shape of warm water, for the sick of the village, whereby I gained some favour, I was, on the 25th Nov., grudgingly prepared for the trip to Wallanchoon, with a guide, and some snow-boots for those of my party whom I took with me.
On the 29th November, I continued my course north up the Yangma valley, which after five miles opened considerably, the trees disappearing, and the river flowing more tranquilly, and through a broader valley, when above 11,000 feet elevation. The Guobah of Wallanchoon overtook us on the road; on his way, he said, to collect the revenues at Yangma village, but in reality to see what I was about.
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