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I was glad to hear there were some Europeans now employed in improving the wells of the town, sent by the Bashaw, all which denotes progress in the Turk. Benioleed is six good days' journey from Bonjem, and four or five from Tripoli. Nothing remarkable occurred in our route from Bonjem to Misratah.
Nevertheless, the villages of Misratah are choked full of very poor destitute people, and during the past year, in the midst of comparative abundance, many of them lived almost entirely on herbs. These wretched creatures congregate in Misratah from all the neighbouring districts, the Gharian and Gibel mountains, the village of Touarghah, and other places.
On the arrival of our ghafalah at Misratah, I was introduced to the quarantine agent, Signor Francesco Regini, an Italian born in Tripoli, but under British protection, and having a Maltese wife. Regini begged me to put up in his house, and I accepted his kindly proffered invitation, when his wife cooked me a fowl and I dined like a prince.
The rude Arabs give a sort of Shakesperian witches' receipt for the cure of this disease, such as the liver of a vulture, the brains of an hyæna, the dung of the ostrich, mixed with other wonderful ingredients. The Establishment of Signor Regini. Visit the Acting Kaed of Misratah. Shabby Conduct of Mehemet Pasha to Regini. Description of the Villages comprised within the Jurisdiction of Misratah.
Meet the Bey of Misratah. Wad Seid, and plain of El-Jumr. The Sand-Storm. Our Slaves' first sight of the Sea. Said left behind. Essnousee foiled in attempting to beat one of his Slaves. Trait of the Tender Passion in our Troop of Slaves. Result of my Observations on the Saharan Slave Traffic. Gardens of Tajourah. The Gardens of the Masheeah. Distance, Time, and Expenses of my Tour.
A drawing of one of these is given, that of Sidi Salah. The Marabet is a common, but fair and picturesque, feature in coast scenery. The bazaar, or market of Misratah, is held three times a week, but in different places of the villages included within this circle of jurisdiction.
We found the gardens of Misratah very agreeable, getting clear of them by night, and encamping in a hilly country, covered with the delicious green of spring, with nibbling snowy flocks scattered and feeding, and Arabs' tents pitched, "black, but comely." But I was surprised to see so few Arabs' tents and douwars in this Regency.
You are a learned man, and have travelled all over the world, and you know Latin; 'Aut Cæsar, aut nullus, that's my motto. I only want the flag here. Get me appointed British Consul. I don't want a salary. Then shall I be a greater man than the Bey of Misratah." I promised, as in duty bound, after this sally of modest ambition, to mention his wish to the Consul-General.
The fact is, Regini is a very deserving man, and could he hoist the Union Jack, might benefit British subjects and promote British interests at the same time that he gratified his own Cæsar-like ambition. This afternoon we left Misratah for Tripoli, our last stage.
At first I was perplexed to know how this bird could be found so far up The Desert, but I recollected we had but six or seven days from Bonjem to Misratah, near the coast. The gull suggested to my drooping spirits sea-breezes to restore my shattered frame, and gave me new life. But indeed, it was the best time of Spring.
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