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Updated: June 1, 2025
Hereabouts are two or three popular drinking places with gardens, and on one Sunday afternoon I sat for some time in the largest of them the Trattoria alla Libra watching several games of bowls the giuocho di bocca in full swing.
Then he put Thomas away in his warm corner of the cart, and Livio joined him, and they had supper together at a trattoria, and then climbed the road between vineyards and lemon gardens up to the new white hotel. Livio, as they walked, practised his repertory of songs, singing melodious snatches in the lemon-scented dusk.
I have since got to know many more famous or pretentious restaurants, but never have dinners tasted so good as at this little Roman trattoria where we had to consider the centesimi in the price of every dish, and the quarter of a flask of cheap Chianti shared between us was an extravagance, and we ate with the appetite that came of having eaten nothing all day save rolls and coffee for breakfast, and fruit and rolls for lunch, that we might afford a dinner at night.
We glided down the little channel, broke away into the Grand Canal, crossed it, and dived into a labyrinth from which we finally emerged before our destination, the Trattoria di San Gallo. The perils of the landing were soon over; and, with the rest of the guests, my mercurial companion and I slowly ascended a long flight of stairs leading to a vast upper chamber. Here we were to dine.
We live at the Cafès and Trattone very conveniently for twenty-five cents a day, enjoying moreover, at our dinner in the Trattoria del Cacciatore, the company of several American artists with whom we have become acquainted. The day after our arrival we met at the table d'hote of the "Lione Bianco," Dr. Boardman of New York, through whose assistance we obtained our present lodgings.
He practised the language wherever he could, especially at the trattoria where he dined, and where he made occasions to detain the waiter in conversation. They humoured him, out of their national good-heartedness and sympathy, and they did what they could to realise a strange American dish for him on Sundays a combination of stockfish and potatoes boiled, and then fried together in small cakes.
It is pleasant to think that Sorrento is still appreciative of its honour as the birth-place of the great Italian poet. The citizens have erected a statue of marble in one of their open spaces; they have called street, hotel and trattoria by his illustrious name; and can the modern spirit of grateful acknowledgment go further than this?
From the window came "Sai cos' ebbe cuore!" sung as only Nora could sing it. The ferrule of Flora Desimone's parasol bit deeply into the clover-turf. "Do you know the Duchessa?" asked Flora Desimone. "Yes." It was three o'clock the same afternoon. The duke sat with his wife under the vine-clad trattoria on the quay. Between his knees he held his Panama hat, which was filled with ripe hazelnuts.
I treated the Vice-Prefect's son to a dinner of five courses at the Trattoria La Stella d'Italia out of sheer jubilation I have found in the Archives, unknown, of course, to the Director, a heap of letters letters of Duke Robert about Medea da Carpi, letters of Medea herself!
He had been absent from the hotel for several days, and now appeared to be in the gloomiest of humours. Where had he been? For a promenade, he said. It was too dreary sitting indoors, all alone. He had left the hotel. The place was too noisy: the dogs barked incessantly. He had taken rooms with a Jew, and arranged to have his meals at a small Italian trattoria. This was a half-truth, I felt sure.
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