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Updated: June 16, 2025
After one week's residence en grand seigneur, was obliged to give up my casa, and repair on board. Orders being to go up to Whampoa, about the confounded insurrection. On the seventeenth of June, came to anchor in the "Reach" again, and found every thing as usual there, the standing joke of the Chinese having taken Canton not being realized.
Later on the country becomes flat and uninteresting till the Bogue Forts are reached. Here are to be seen the remains of the old forts knocked down by the French and English guns. About one o'clock we reached Whampoa, the leading port of Canton.
However, here we got exercise even at a high rate; and this exercise is considered so desirable, that persons from Canton a distance of ten miles resort to this place. From Whampoa departed for Hong-Kong, where found a number of old friends. We arrived there upon Coronation day, which was being celebrated with all honor.
The Typa is filling up so rapidly that we never could get out now without a scrape, and the senior officer perhaps thought it better we should move before we had formed a bar with our beef bones. So out of the Typa again we got, poised our wings in the outer harbor, and took flight for Whampoa again, and settled down in our old resting place in the "Reach," on the 11th of October.
Neither these nor any other priests can boast, as I was told, of being in the least respected by the people. Our second excursion was to the Half-way Pagoda, so called by the English from its lying half way between Canton and Whampoa. We went up the Pearl stream to it.
This change had been advocated by an old friend of Sun Yat-sen, Chiang Kai-shek, who later married Sun's sister-in-law. Chiang Kai-shek, who was born in 1886, was the head of the military academy at Whampoa, near Canton, where Russian instructors were at work. It was opposed by the elements of the right, who at first had little influence.
Our stay at Whampoa was not marked by any incidents worth noticing, and it is only to keep up the chronological character of my journal, that the trip is introduced. Anson's Bay Hong-Kong again P. & O. Company's hulk takes fire Escape of Captain's wife Toong-Koo Bay Piracy Fire at Mac
Whampoa, C.M.G., a Chinaman of great wealth and enlightened public spirit, who is one of the foremost men in the colony.
It now became necessary for me to attend to the ship and the interests of my owners; suffering my passengers to land at Whampoa, with the understanding we were to meet before either party sailed. I soon disposed of the sandal-wood and skins, and found no difficulty in procuring teas, nankins, china-ware, and the other articles pointed out, in the instructions to poor Captain Williams.
Soon after leaving Hong Kong the country becomes nearly a dead level, mainly rice-swamps varied by patches of bananas, with their great fronds torn to tatters by the prevailing strong breeze. A very high pagoda marks Whampoa, once a prosperous port, but now, like Macao, nearly deserted.
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