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Updated: June 4, 2025
As my wife and daughter required much more time in making preparations for their journey than I for mine, and as I should only be in their way whilst they were employed, it was determined that I should depart on my expedition on Thursday, and that they should remain at Llangollen till the Saturday.
"This way," said he, pointing in the direction of the west, "leads back to Llangollen, the other to Offa's Dyke and England." We turned to the west. He inquired if I had ever heard before of Offa's Dyke. "Oh yes," said I, "it was built by an old Saxon king called Offa, against the incursions of the Welsh."
Though it was eight o'clock in the evening, it was anything to get away from Llangollen, and we left with a view of stopping for the night at Bettws-y-Coed, about thirty miles away. With our motor car racing like mad over the fine highway there was no danger of police traps at that hour we did not stop to inquire about the dog that went under the wheels in the first village we passed.
After ordering dinner I said that as I was thirsty I should like to have some ale forthwith. "Ale you shall have, your honour," said Tom, "and some of the best ale that can be drunk. This house is famous for ale." "I suppose you get your ale from Llangollen," said I, "which is celebrated for its ale over Wales."
My wife and daughter were to meet me at Bangor, to which place they would repair by the railroad, and from which, after seeing some of the mountain districts, they would return to Llangollen by the way they came, where I proposed to join them, returning, however, by a different way from the one I went, that I might traverse new districts.
To his visits to the West of England and North Wales about this time we owe some charming sketches the two "Wynnstay Theatre Tickets," for instance, dating from some visit to Sir Watkin Williams Wynn when theatricals were in the air at Wynnstay, and that lovely print of "The Modern Graces," drawn, it is said, from the three beautiful Misses Shakespere during the stay of our artist at Aston; while those two prints of "Peasants from the Vale of Llangollen" hint at some pleasant ramble in the Welsh hills.
Shrewsbury is a good starting point for an expedition into Wales, and we can strongly recommend the walk from Chirk, one of the stations on the line to Chester, over the hills by footpaths to Llangollen: from one point a view may be caught of the three great civilizers of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.
I instantly turned round. About half-way back I met a man who asked me in English where I was hurrying to. I said to Rhiwabon, in order to get to Llangollen. "Well, then," said he, "you need not return to Rhiwabon yonder is a short cut across the fields," and he pointed to a gate.
The truth is, nobody here knows who built it, or anything about it, save that it is a wonder. Ah, those people of Llangollen can show nothing like it." "Come," said I, "you must not be so hard upon the people of Llangollen. They appear to me upon the whole to be an eminently respectable body." The Celtic waiter gave a genuine French shrug. "Excuse me, your honour, for being of a different opinion.
Having had his boots resoled and his umbrella repaired, he left Llangollen for South Wales, upon an excursion which was to occupy three weeks. During the course of this expedition he was taken for many things, from a pork- jobber to Father Toban himself, as whom he pronounced "the best Latin blessing I could remember" over two or three dozen Irish reapers to their entire satisfaction.
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