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Updated: June 27, 2025
The peak of Teneriffe presents two of these elevated plains, the uppermost of which, at the foot of the Piton, is as high as Etna, and of very little extent; while the lowermost, covered with tufts of retama, reaches as far as the Estancia de los Ingleses. This rises above the level of the sea almost as high as the city of Quito, and the summit of Mount Lebanon.
A halt is made for lunch at the Pine grotto before climbing the huge blocks of basalt ranged in a circle about the crater, now filled in with ashes from the peak, and forming its enceinte. The peak itself is next attached, the ascent of which is broken one-third of the way up by a sort of esplanade called the Estancia de los Ingleses.
Still I made no return, till I came close on their quarter, and then sent one of their countrymen to our boltsprit-end, to inform them we were bound for Panama, and wished to treat with them peaceably: But the only reply they made was by continuing their fire, calling us borachos and peros Ingleses, drunkards and English dogs; so that at length I thought it full time to begin with them.
I heard also of an old lady who, at a dinner at Coquimbo, remarked how wonderfully strange it was that she should have lived to dine in the same room with an Englishman; for she remembered as a girl, that twice, at the mere cry of "Los Ingleses," every soul, carrying what valuables they could, had taken to the mountains. 14th. We reached Coquimbo, where we stayed a few days.
Presently the Ingleses came picking their way through the grove in a surrey. Cecilia Ingles alighted with the air of one somewhat at sea. She greeted Rosy quite pleasantly, but seemed to be looking about for the captain. The dry, shrewd, middle-aged face of her husband adjusted its expression readily enough to the matter before them. He was a born manager and manipulator.
I heard also of an old lady who, at a dinner at Coquimbo, remarked how wonderfully strange it was that she should have lived to dine in the same room with an Englishman; for she remembered as a girl, that twice, at the mere cry of "Los Ingleses," every soul, carrying what valuables they could, had taken to the mountains. We reached Coquimbo, where we stayed a few days.
But all their industry was in vain, for they escaped through their nimbleness, and presently after showed themselves in another place, hallooing unto the English, and crying: 'A la savana, a la savana, cornudos, perros Ingleses; that is, 'To the plain, to the plain, ye cockolds, ye English dogs! While these things passed, the ten Pirates that were wounded a little before were dressed and plastered up.
"Amigos, amigos!" cried Pen, and he grounded arms, Punch following his example. "Amigos! No, Franceses," shouted one of the men, as the fire burnt up more brightly; and he pointed at Pen's musket. "No," cried Pen, "Ingleses." And laying down his piece near the fire, he coolly seated himself and began to warm his hands. "Come on, Punch," he said, "sit down; and give me your haversack."
Paston was stopping with the Ingleses, and had rowed across immediately after breakfast. "I think I heard them speak about driving down. I say," he added, "it's a rum go for her." "I don't see why," rejoined Susan Bates, disputatiously. "She is old enough to take things seriously; she has got far enough along to begin to be in earnest. The first thing she asked me was how much money I wanted.
The reasons which induced me to visit Barbary will be seen in the following chapters. Night on the Guadalquivir Gospel Light Bonanza Strand of San Lucar Andalusian Scenery History of a Chest Cosas de los Ingleses The Two Gypsies The Driver The Red Nightcap The Steam Boat Christian Language.
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