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Updated: June 22, 2025
The people at Caripi would not touch a morsel, saying it was not considered fit to eat in these parts; I had read, however, that it was an article of food in other countries of South America. During the next two or three weeks, whenever we were short of fresh meat, Antonio was always ready, for a small reward, to get me a Tamandua.
Here we slept, and the following morning, continuing our voyage, entered a narrow channel which intersects the land of Carnapijo. At 2 p.m. we emerged from this channel, which is called the Aitituba, or Arrozal, into the broad Bahia, and then saw, two or three miles away to the left, the red-tiled mansion of Caripi, embosomed in woods on the shores of a charming little bay.
There are three villages on the coast of Carnapijo, and several planters' houses, formerly the centres of flourishing estates, which have now relapsed into forest in consequence of the scarcity of labour and diminished enterprise. One of the largest of these establishments is called Caripi. At the time of which I am speaking, it belonged to a Scotch gentleman, Mr.
On the trunk of a living leguminous tree, Petzell found a number of a very rare and handsome species, the Platysternus hebraeus, which is of a broad shape, coloured ochreous, but spotted and striped with black, so as to resemble a domino. At length, on the 12th of February, I left Caripi, my Negro and Indian neighbours bidding me a warm "adios."
A path from Caripi leads to it through a gloomy tract of virgin forest, where the trees are so closely packed together that the ground beneath is thrown into the deepest shade, under which nothing but fetid fungi and rotting vegetable debris is to be seen. On emerging from this unfriendly solitude near the banks of the Murucupi, a charming contrast is presented.
At the end of that time my two companions returned, having met with no game whatever. We now embarked on our return voyage. Raimundo cut two slender poles, one for a mast and the other for a sprit to these he rigged a sail we had brought in the boat, for we were to return by the open river, and expected a good wind to carry us to Caripi.
Some of the hymns were very simple and beautiful, especially one beginning "Virgensoberana," a trace of whose melody springs to my recollection whenever I think on the dreamy solitude of Caripi. The next day after I arrived, two blue-eyed and red-haired boys came up and spoke to me in English, and presently their father made his appearance.
Petzell and his family were expert insect-collectors, so I employed them at this work during my stay at Caripi. The daily occurrences here were after a uniform fashion. I rose with the dawn, took a cup of coffee, and then sallied forth after birds. At ten I breakfasted, and devoted the hours from ten until three to entomology. The evening was occupied in preserving and storing my captures.
Petzell tripped at one place and fell all his length into the thicket. With this exception, we kept well to the pathway, and in due time arrived safely at Caripi. One of my neighbours at Murucupi was a hunter of reputation in these parts.
Raimundo sat at the stern, rigid and silent, his eye steadily watching the prow of the boat. It was almost worth the risk and discomfort of the passage to witness the seamanlike ability displayed by Indians on the water. The little boat rode beautifully, rising well with each wave, and in the course of an hour and a half we arrived at Caripi, thoroughly tired and wet through to the skin.
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