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Updated: June 26, 2025
Why not charter a big native dug-out up the river at Bhamo sink it for a day or two for reasons then drift and row down. You could get up to Bhamo in a week or less, or in two or three days shortly, when there's a railway, and take, say three weeks down to Mandalay. Kalone to Katha is interesting all the way. At Katha the mountains on the west come closer to the river.
Poor "Bones" and the pock-marked coolie died, and Laotseng lay ill in the hotel there for weeks, and, when he recovered sufficiently to go on to Tali, he had to go without the three loads, which the landlord of the inn detained, pending the payment of his board and lodging and the burial expenses of his two companions. The finest residence in Bhamo is, of course, the American mission.
Chinese, although of late years drawn to this low-lying area, do not abound in these parts, and the Shan is therefore left pretty much to himself. And the pleasant eight-day march from Tengyueh to Bhamo, the metropolis of Upper Burma, probably offers to the traveler objects and scenes of more varying interest than any other stage of the tramp from far-away Chung-king.
... The up-river mail has passed us, it had been delayed on a sandbank; we ship an American family party from it. Having lost some hours on the sandbank, they cannot now proceed up the river to Bhamo, as they had intended, so they returned with us to Mandalay.
I mentioned this offer at the Bhamo Club, when a civilian present at once offered me 50 rupees for the pony; he did not know the pony, he explained, but he knew Roberts. In a steamer of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company I came down the river from Bhamo to Mandalay.
The second part of my trip was from almost the extreme east to the extreme west of Yün-nan from Tong-ch'uan-fu to Bhamo, in British Burma. Yün-nan-fu to Tali-fu 905 li. I also made a rather extended tour among the Miao tribes, in country untrodden by Europeans, except by missionaries working among the people. Stages to the capital. Universality of reform in China.
The Burman reported that the villagers had been filled with curiosity at the sight of three white travellers in this out-of-the-way region, and had overwhelmed him with questions about them. "What did you tell them, Me Dain?" asked Jack. "Said you were crossing the hills to strike up to the great road from Bhamo," replied the Burman.
He had safely traversed China from Hankow to Bhamo, had been everywhere courteously treated by the Chinese and been given every facility and protection on his journey. He had passed safely through Manyuen only five weeks before, and had then written: "I come and go without meeting the slightest rudeness among this charming people, and they address me with the greatest respect."
And so I have ever found these peoples, with whom I am glad to say, after travelling over 20,000 miles in their countries, I have never exchanged a rough word, and among whom I think I have left not one enemy and not a few friends." Two days after their arrival in Bhamo my three men started on their return journey to Talifu.
Then up it heaved, and on we held, to ropes, and went off for half a mile over the hot, soft sand; Captain Kirke riding a pretty Arab pony. I'd never been on an elephant before, to my knowledge, nor had I ever experienced the sensation of the black hair pricking through thin trousers, or the besom of a tail whacking my boots I consider we entered Bhamo with a good deal of éclat. 4th February.
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