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Updated: June 1, 2025


The critics of the vintage, who pursue their calling in the dark vaults and amid mouldy casks, give their opinion, for the most part, only upon wine, upon juice that has matured and ripened into development of quality. But what crude, unrestrained, unfermented even raw and drugged liquor, must the literary taster put to his unwilling lips day after day!

And if not a tea taster, then some commercial house would absorb his energies, which would be worse still close at his elbow a spectacled Chinese clicking all day upon a dirty little abacus, checking him up, keeping tabs on him. No, the work he had was better. But he was so tired of it.

Lady the servant of a Scottish baron is he who regards not his own life, or that of any other, save his master. And, for the death of the woman, I had tried the potion on her sooner, had not Master George been her taster. Her death would it not be the happiest news that Scotland ever heard? Is she not of the bloody Guisian stock, whose sword was so often red with the blood of God's saints?

Both in character of imagery and in form of structure we have here the germ of such passages as this which one might confidently defy the most accomplished literary "taster" to distinguish from Jeremy Taylor: "Or like two rapid streams that at their first meeting within narrow and rocky banks mutually strive to repel each other, and intermix reluctantly and in tumult, but soon finding a wider channel and more yielding shores, blend and dilate and flow on in one current and with one voice."

But the very quality of the decline of the year as we at present here feel it suits peculiarly the mood in which an undiscourageable gatherer of the sense of things, or taster at least of "charm," moves through these many-memoried streets and galleries and churches.

"They meant to have poisoned us," she exclaimed in horror, "and there stands the fatal liquor which should have done the deed! Ay, as soon as Douglas ceased to be our taster, our food was likely to be fatally seasoned. Thou, Roland, who shouldst have made the essay, wert readily doomed to die with us.

At first, only of the little gherkins, then promoted through medium cucumbers, to the glory of full-fledged Dills. A conscientious taster faithful, diligent, she reached the amazing speed of forty pickles a minute, and all done well. Of course it told on her. Also, her heartaches told on her. Lonely. Homesick for Bill, for Ptomaine Haul, for the gallery of Petticoats.

While Lady Douglas of Lochleven performed her daily duty of assistant and taster at the Queen's table, she was told a man-at-arms had arrived, recommended by her son, but without any letter or other token than what he brought by word of mouth. "Hath he given you that token?" demanded the Lady. "He reserved it, as I think, for your Ladyship's ear," replied Randal.

Thus in 1659 Richard Webb, of Boston, left by will "1 Silver Wine Taster;" and in 1673 John Oxenbridge had "1 Siluer Taster with a funnel." A taster was apparently a small cup. Larger drinking-cups of silver were called beakers, or tankards, beer-bowls, or wine-bowls. These latter vessels were made also of humbler metal.

It may well astonish you, that you should have in your inside a taster who is not accountable to you; who experiences sensations of which you know nothing, and cannot even form an idea. Yet thus it is.

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