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Updated: May 25, 2025


It was he, sir, who, on his arrival from Paris, two years ago, made this remarkable speech to me: 'A man of taste, Monsieur le Marquis, can no longer live in Paris; they practice there now, a certain romantic style of cooking which will lead us Heaven knows where! In short, sir, Rostain is a classic; this singular man has an opinion of his own!

Ah, ah, let us see if you can!" I cast a furtive glance at the remnants of the two dishes to which the marquis had just called my attention, and I had no hesitation in designating as "classic" the one that was surmounted with a temple of cupid, and a figure of that god in polychromatic pastry. "A hit!" exclaimed the marquis. "Bravo! Rostain shall hear of it, and his heart will rejoice.

"Monsiuer le Marquis will excuse me," replied Rostain with a melancholy smile, "if I do not share his illusions; in the first place, the hunter devours and does not eat; he brings to the table the stomach of a man just saved from shipwreck, iratum ventrem, as Horace says, and swallows up without choice and without reflection, gulæ parens, the most serious productions of an artist; in the second place, the violent exercise of the chase has developed in such guests an inordinate thirst, which they generally slake without moderation.

Monsieur le Marquis, then said Jean Rostain, 'I must confess to you that it is impossible for me to live in a place where I find no one to play a game of billiards with me! Ma foi! it was a little too much!" added the marquis, with a cheerful good-nature. "I could not really offer to play billiards with him myself! I had to submit.

The decadence of taste, the increasing development of the romantic cuisine! Such are your own words, Rostain! He replied: 'Doubtless, Monsieur le Marquis; but provincial life has bitter trials which I had not foreseen! I offered him fabulous wages; he refused. 'Come, my good fellow, what is the matter? Ah!

After uttering these words, Rostain draped himself in his toga, cast to heaven the look of an unappreciated genius, and left my study. "I would have thought," I said to the marquis, "that you would have spared no sacrifice to retain that great man." "You judge me correctly, sir," replied Monsieur de Malouet; "but you'll see that he carried me to the very limits of impossibility.

Precisely a week ago, Monsieur Rostain, having solicited a private audience, announced to me that he found himself under the painful necessity of leaving my service. 'Heavens! Monsieur Rostain to leave my service! And where do you expect to go? 'To Paris. 'What! to Paris! But you had shaken upon the great Babylon the dust of your sandals!

But, at all these prodigious concessions, the old chef shook his head with indifference. But finally, I exclaimed, 'in the name of Heaven, Monsieur Rostain, do explain! 'Mon Dieu!

I am about to lose the oldest, and without doubt the most skillful, of these masters the illustrious Jean Rostain.

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