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Updated: June 5, 2025
The heart of Venice Old-fashioned music Teutonic invaders The honeymooners True republicanism A city of the poor The black shawls A brief triumph Red hair A band-night incident The pigeons of the Piazza The two Procuratie A royal palace The shopkeepers Florian's Great names Venetian restaurants Little fish The old campanile A noble resolve The new campanile The angel vane The rival campanili The welcome lift The bells Venice from the Campanile.
The corridors under the Imperial Palace and the New and Old Procuratie were packed with spectators; from every window up and down the fronts of the palaces, gay stuffs were flung; the startled doves of St. Mark perched upon the cornices, or fluttered uneasily to and fro above the crowd.
In Venice he must not be confounded with other loiterers at the caffe; not with the natty people who talk politics interminably over little cups of black coffee; not with those old habitues, who sit forever under the Procuratie, their hands folded upon the tops of their sticks, and staring at the ladies who pass with a curious steadfastness and knowing skepticism of gaze, not pleasing in the dim eyes of age; certainly, the last persons who bear any likeness to the lasagnone are the Germans, with their honest, heavy faces comically anglicized by leg-of- mutton whiskers.
The Canal of Fasana, between the Brioni Islands and the mainland, a little to the south, was the scene of the crushing defeat of the Venetians by the Genoese in 1379. The quarries in these islands, together with those of Rovigno, provided stone for the ducal and other palaces, the Procuratie at Venice, the murazzi at Chioggia, and the mole at Malamocco.
I must do what I can, by the help of a rough plan and bird's-eye view, to give him the necessary topographical knowledge: Opposite is a rude ground plan of the buildings round St. Mark's Place; and the following references will clearly explain their relative positions: A. St. Mark's Place. B. Piazzetta. P. V. Procuratie Vecchie. P. L. Libreria Vecchia. I. Piazzetta de' Leoni. T. Tower of St. Mark.
Then he too knelt hastily, mechanically lifting his head, and glancing along the front of the Old Procuratie. His face had that weariness in it which his figure and movement had suggested, and it was very pale, but it was yet more singular for the troubled innocence which its traits expressed. "There," whispered Ferris, "that's what I call an uncommonly good face."
S. Mark's main façade is of course beyond words wonderful; but after this the Piazza has only the Merceria clock and the Old and the New Procuratie, whereas the Piazzetta has S. Mark's small façade, the Porta della Carta and lovely west façade of the Doges' Palace, the columns bearing S. Mark's lion and S. Theodore, Sansovino's Old Library and Loggetta; while the Campanile is common to both.
The characteristic contrasts of Venetian life seemed to be emphasised by the vagaries of the carnival, and Odo never ceased to be diverted by the sight of a long line of masqueraders in every kind of comic disguise kneeling devoutly before the brilliantly-lit shrine of the Virgin under the arches of the Procuratie, while the friar who led their devotions interrupted his litany whenever the quack on an adjoining platform began to bawl through a tin trumpet the praise of his miraculous pills.
Its ground-level, under the Procuratie, is belted with a glittering line of shops and caffe, the most tasteful and brilliant in the world, and the arcades that pass round three of its sides are filled with loungers and shoppers, even when there is music by the Austrian bands; for, as we have seen, the purest patriot may then walk under the Procuratie, without stain to the principles which would be hopelessly blackened if he set foot in the Piazza.
Let us take our nominal friends, Marco and Todaro, and attend them in their solemn promenade under the arcades of the Procuratie, or upon the Molo, whither they go every evening to taste the air and to look at the ladies, while the Austrians and the other foreigners listen to the military music in the Piazza.
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