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Updated: June 14, 2025
Here all the tourists stay for a night or so during a hasty visit to the Crnagora, and it is to be avoided by those who wish to see the country. Cetinje and its sights Prince Nicolas The Archbishop The barracks The princes A visit to the prison and its system Our departure for Podgorica.
The road entering Podgorica is very similar in appearance to that which leads into Cetinje, only the first impressions are considerably wilder and more uncivilised than that of the capital. Hundreds of Turks and Albanians are smoking their evening "tchibouque" in the streets, and scowl in no friendly manner at the stranger.
But, outside, perhaps but half an hour from the outskirts of the town, these men will meet and shoot and kill; for murder, or sudden death, to use their euphemistic way of looking at matters, is by no means uncommon. There is a great tract of land about an hour's ride from Podgorica characteristically called the "Crna Zemlja" or Black Earth.
Podgorica and its fertile plain fell into the hands of the conquerors, and then in quick succession Antivari and Dulcigno were forced to yield. He was about to commence the siege of Scutari when news came of the armistice between Russia and Turkey.
There was Dr. S., a Roumanian, an Austrian ornithologist, a Scotchman, our innkeeper was a Macedonian, and two or three Montenegrins. From that evening date many of the pleasant friendships which we made in Montenegro. The next day our newly-made friends showed us Podgorica.
How often first impressions are wrong we proved to the full in this instance. Podgorica saw more of us than any other town during our stay, for we made it afterwards our headquarters. It would be difficult to forget that mountain-bounded valley and the town with its bustling streets of picturesque humanity. And then those sunsets!
The district which corresponds most nearly to Montenegro of the present day comes first into notice when the Romans attacked Queen Teuta and drove her back beyond the modern Podgorica in the third century B.C. From this time onwards Roman influence made itself felt strongly in the Prævalitana, an outlying province of Illyria, and the city of Dioclea whose ruins still exist in the neighbourhood of Podgorica, and which was to play such an important part in the germ state of Crnagora, or the "Land of the Black Mountain" rose into being.
The Franciscan had given us a new insight into the mysteries of life. A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof Kećo's story The laws of Vendetta and their incongruity We return to Podgorica The Montenegrin telephone An elopement causes excitement The Sultan's birthday The reverse of the picture A legal anomaly. "At Fundina," said Dr. S., "you will meet one of the modern heroes of Montenegro.
The Albanian or Turkish element is very strong in Dulcigno, and they are the only Montenegrin subjects exempt from compulsory military service. The Montenegrin authorities told us that they were very peaceable and industrious, giving no trouble whatever. It is, after Podgorica, the largest town in Montenegro, and does a lot of trade in small sailing-boats down the coast.
Without doubt it is the coming trading centre, and already it is running Podgorica very close. The day after our arrival we had arrived in the night we saw the town under most unfavourable conditions. A violent thunderstorm had raged incessantly for many hours, and the streets were in parts inundated.
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