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Updated: May 14, 2025
What an opportunity for snow-shoeing! The peasants can do the journey to Podgorica in about half the time on their primitive snow-shoes. The ride from here to Kolašin was nearly perfection. We skirted rushing mountain torrents, through woodland glades and soft green swards; the air was glorious and cool, for though the sun was powerful there was an abundance of shade.
There was always something to talk about, from a threatened raid of the Albanians to the abduction of a Turkish maiden. Death is always very near in that unknown border town. The day of our final departure from Podgorica, we drove to the famous Crna Zemlja, or Black Earth. The object of our visit was chiefly to call on a young Albanian, who had repeatedly invited us.
Before we left Dulcigno it was necessary to have our passports viséd by the Turkish Consul, as we intended returning to Podgorica viâ Scutari. We had to go through a lot of tedious formality, though the Consul was a most pleasant man, and laughed at the precautions which his orders forced him to take.
Deadly enemies meet on the market-place, men standing in blood feud with one another, and speak, often expressing a fervent prayer soon to be able to put a bullet into the other at the first opportunity, but outside the town. Podgorica is mutually held as neutral territory, and is very rarely violated. This is strange where men fear not death.
On the next market day as I wandered gloomily across the market-place of Podgorica, Achmet, the Turk, accosted me. "'Where is thy milk? he asked, 'which is so wonderful, and where are thy marvellous cheeses? "I replied that I knew not, and would have passed on. "'Make thy mind easy, continued Achmet, an evil smile spreading over his face, 'for I have thy cow.
A glimpse of a green valley below can just be caught, there lies Podgorica, our destination. At our feet a long, low-lying plateau ends abruptly in a wall of rock, through which the road vanishes, and which can be traced white and threadlike on the overhanging hillside. Beyond is the valley and town of Rijeka.
Men praised the milk and the cheese when I took it to the market in Podgorica for sale, and none more than Achmet, a Turk from Dinoš. "One morning I went to milk my cow, and could find her nowhere. My most treasured possession was gone. I searched for her all that day and the next on the mountain sides, but in vain.
For many years Sokol lived in the Albanian mountains, half robber and wholly patriot; but the pursuit became too keen, and he came to Podgorica, where he entered the service of Prince Nicolas. His new Prince he serves loyally, and is highly esteemed in Montenegro, where he will doubtless end his days.
Hospitable, reckless, poverty-stricken Montenegrins one can travel far before another such a race can be found. The last two hours of the drive are uninteresting, chiefly because eight hours in a carriage is trying. Podgorica comes in sight long before it is reached, in the form of a cluster of trees on a grassy but dead-level plain, out of which two minarets show their graceful spires.
I should want to buy the beautiful things which they tell me are to be bought in the shops, and not having money I should be sad. No; it is better never to have seen such magnificence." "But," I argued, "if thou goest to Podgorica, thou wouldst find work. Even I could get thee employment." "No," he repeated; "my home is in the mountains.
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