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Most picturesque is the old Turkish quarter, still surrounded by the same bastions and walls which not so long ago defied the Montenegrin army. But the houses, as well as the walls, are fast falling to ruin; for at the order of the Prince the market has been removed to the other side, and, in comparison with the new town, there are few inhabitants left.

A large woman was blocking the door; we demanded food, she took no notice. Hunger was clamouring within us. We demanded a second time. She waved her hand majestically to her rival in Austria, at whose tables Montenegrin officers were sitting with coffee. An officer greeted us. "We had expected you yesterday," he said. We waved to the horses. "No horses." "That is a pity," he murmured.

The Franciscan had given us a new insight into the mysteries of life. A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof Kećo's story The laws of Vendetta and their incongruity We return to Podgorica The Montenegrin telephone An elopement causes excitement The Sultan's birthday The reverse of the picture A legal anomaly. "At Fundina," said Dr. S., "you will meet one of the modern heroes of Montenegro.

But I had found "the land where I could have a complete change"; had learnt, too, of the Great Serbian Idea; had had the meaning of the Montenegrin cap explained to me; and been told how the reconstruction of the Great Serb Empire of the Middle Ages was what Montenegro lived for.

Men cursed, slashed, stabbed and discharged revolvers at each other, while the horses of the opposing forces fought as well as their riders. The Montenegrin battery had now become silent, for to have fired would have been to endanger the life of friend as well as foe. The horsemen struggled desperately, hand-to-hand. But the force of the Austrian charge had been spent.

Ivan was still on top, but the Montenegrin, with both arms around the Cossack's neck, was making desperate efforts to roll his opponent over. Nicolas lay squarely upon his back and Ivan's arms, wrapped around him at the moment of encounter, were pinioned beneath the other. The big Cossack was making strenuous attempts to free his right hand and still hold his opponent down with his great bulk.

From that time, tokens of grateful, loving remembrance from our Montenegrin friends ceased not to flow in. "Oh, that I were where I would be." Aunt Cattie was called away to see visitors, and it was not till after tea that the story could be resumed.

Outside in the snow was a long-distance telescope, and peering through one could see the conning tower of the Austrian submarine, a faint hump on the sea by the southernmost point. As we returned to the cold hotel we passed the Montenegrin batteries: cannon too small to be of any use and the gunners of which were all so ill that they could not handle them.

Montenegrins do not squander soldiers without reason; and then one's mind went back to the four armed guards who were accompanying us. We discovered the truth later, let us tell the story here. Berane, to which we were descending, was once a populous growing Turkish town. After the Balkan war it fell into Montenegrin territories.

The French sent them out in a spirit of pure economical charity, and had the Frenchmen not been, on the average, small, and the Montenegrin, contrariwise, large, perhaps the gift would have been received with a better grace; but the sight of these enormous men bursting in all places from their all too tight regimentals, was ludicrous, and the soldiers felt it keenly.