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Updated: June 1, 2025


Yet ghosts these were not, but aged samurai of Matsue, who had borne arms in the service of the last of the daimyo. And among them appeared his surviving ministers, the venerable karo; and these, as the procession turned city-ward, took their old places of honour, and marched before the shrine valiantly, though bent with years. How that pageant might have impressed other strangers I do not know.

There is, however, a strange superstition, about tsubaki-trees; and this sacred tree of Yaegaki, in the opinion of some folk, is a rare exception to the general ghastliness of its species. For tsubaki-trees are goblin trees, they say, and walk about at night; and there was one in the garden of a Matsue samurai which did this so much that it had to be cut down.

And although a single spark and a high wind are sufficient in combination to obliterate a larger city in one day, great fires are unknown in Matsue, and small ones are of rare occurrence.

Over the Tenjin-bashi, or Bridge of Tenjin, and through small streets and narrow of densely populated districts, and past many a tenantless and mouldering feudal homestead, I make my way to the extreme south- western end of the city, to watch the sunset from a little sobaya facing the lake. For to see the sun sink from this sobaya is one of the delights of Matsue.

Only a part of a fox-gift is real. A Matsue shizoku, going home one night by way of the street called Horomachi, saw a fox running for its life pursued by dogs. He beat the dogs off with his umbrella, thus giving the fox a chance to escape.

But doubtless owing to the fact that Matsue remained a feudal stronghold until a time within the memory of thousands still living, those feudal distinctions of caste so sharply drawn in ancient times are yet indicated with singular exactness by the varying architecture of different districts.

These ofuda are from the great Inari temple of Oshiroyama, within the castle grounds, and are charms against fire. They represent, indeed, the only form of assurance against fire yet known in Matsue, so far, at least, as wooden dwellings are concerned.

Nearly all are from temples in Matsue or its vicinity; and the Buddhist ones indicate by the sacred words upon them to what particular shu or sect, the family belong for nearly every soul in this community professes some form of Buddhism as well as the all-dominant and more ancient faith of Shinto.

Yet offences against the law are still surprisingly few, even in Saigo. When a serious offence is committed, the offender is not punished in Oki, but is sent to the great prison at Matsue, in Izumo. The Dozen islands, however, perfectly maintain their ancient reputation for irreproachable honesty.

They are never allowed to enter any house in Matsue except the shop of a dealer in geta and other footgear. Originally vagrants, they were permanently settled in Matsue by some famous daimyo, who built for them small houses koya on the bank of the canal. Hence their name. As for the eta proper, their condition and calling are too familiar to need comment in this connection.

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