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Updated: May 24, 2025
"Now all the woodlands round, and these fair vales, And broad plains that from their borders stretch Away to the blue Unica, and run Along the Ozark range, and far beyond Find the still groves that shut Itasca in, But more than all, these old Miami Woods, Are robed in golden exhalations, dim As half-remembered dreams, and beautiful As aught or Valambrosa, or the plains Of Arcady, by fabling poets sung.
We landed, fastened the canoes, took our bearings by compass and started for a tramp through thicket and forest to Elk Lake, which we reached after a rapid walk of thirty-five minutes. This lake is an oval of about one mile in its longest diameter. It lies about half a mile in a straight line south from Itasca. Its shores are marshy, bordered by hills densely timbered.
The Itasca, on the other hand, ran alongside one of the schooners and slipped the chains; but, unfortunately, as the hulk was set adrift without Captain Caldwell being notified, and the engines of the gunboat were going ahead with the helm a-port, the two vessels turned inshore and ran aground under fire of the forts.
Metacomet. 9. Richmond. 10. Port Royal. 11. Lackawanna. 12. Seminole. 13. Admiral's barge Loyall. 14. Monongahela. 15. Kennebec. 16. Ossipee. 17. Itasca. 18. Oneida. 19. Galena. Course of chasing vessels. ...... Course of chased vessels. No. 1. Ships lashed together and running in from sea and the monitors running out of Monitor Bay to take their station inside or eastward of the line. No. 2.
Hartford, Commander Wainwright. 10. Brooklyn, Captain T. T. Craven. 11. Richmond, Commander J. Alden. THIRD DIVISION Captain H. H. Bell. Sciota, Lieut.-Com. Edward Donaldson. 13. Iroquois, Com. John De Camp. 14. Kennebec, Lieut.-Com. John H. Russell. 15. Pinola, Lieut.-Com. P. Crosby. 16. Itasca, Lieut.-Com. C. H. B. Caldwell. 17. Winona, Lieut.-Com. E. T. Nichols. 18.
Barring the mosquitos, Sunday's rest was a pleasant and refreshing sequence to ten days of toil and struggle, and Monday found us in hearty readiness for a thorough exploration of Itasca Lake and its feeders. We took a lunch, our guns and scientific instruments, and paddled up the south-west arm of the lake to find and explore the leading tributary.
After days of inquiry and two trips over the Northern Pacific Railroad, I decided upon a route to Itasca Lake which no white man had ever traversed. I made an entirely successful journey, marking out the White Earth route so clearly that any child could follow it thereafter. What feat is there to go over ground which I described so explicitly as follows?
At the end of the second chapter he says this I think I have it nearly word for word: 'At the meeting of the waters from Delaware and from Itasca, and from the mountain ranges close upon the Pacific Now what did he mean by making this very extraordinary statement twice? Is there a catch about it? Canals, or something?"
The Itasca, commanded by the gallant Caldwell, who had so nobly broken through the obstructions, opposing only her puny battery to the concentrated wrath of the forts, was knocked about by them at will, received a shot through her boiler and drifted down the river out of action. The Winona likewise encountered almost alone, or perhaps in company with the Itasca, the fire of the enemy.
First stage, to White Earth; second stage, to the Twin Lakes; third stage, across the prairie to the Wild Rice River; fourth stage, up that stream to the Lake of the Spirit Isle; and fifth stage, of half a day, by the Ah-she-wa-wa-see-ta-gen portage, to the Mississippi, at a point twenty-six miles north of Itasca.
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