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During her residence in Paris after the Restoration, Louis Dix-Huit Des Huitres, the wits styled him from his inordinate love of oysters fancying that her presence would reflect contemptuously on the late "Corsican usurper," made known his wish to see her at court.
Fish is out of the question in the country; chickens die of the pip every where but in London; game is out of season; it is impossible to send to Gibblet's for meat; it is equally impossible to get it any where else; and as for the only two natural productions of the country, vegetables and eggs, I need no extraordinary penetration, to be certain, that your cook cannot transmute the latter into an omelette aux huitres, on the former into legumes a la creme.
When they are between three and four years old he consigns them to a correspondent at Ballyvaughan, who puts them in, I believe, deep-sea oyster beds for a while and converts them into the famous Burren oysters, which, like the Marenne oysters, are generally preferred by Englishmen to "Natives," while the "spat" of the latter is eagerly sought by the French for development into Huitres d'Ostende.
In the citadel of Verdun it seemed as if it must have been evolved by rubbing Aladdin's lamp, and I said so as I read it over: Huîtres d'Ostende Bisque d'Écrevisses Sanglier rôti Purée de Pommes de Terre Soufflée de Chocolat Fruits Bonbons "Oh, we've never been hungry at Verdun, even when things were at their liveliest," said the officer sitting next to me.
The River Somme Amiens cathedral Sunday afternoon promenaders Women, old men and boys A prosperous old town Madame of the little Restaurant des Huîtres The old waiter at the hotel The stork and the sea-gull Distinguished visitors Horses and dogs Water carts Gossips of battle The donkeys. What contrasts! There was none so pleasant as that when you took the river road homeward after an action.
We came to know all with the intimacy that war develops, but for sheer character and energy the blue ribbon goes to Madame of the little Restaurant des Huîtres. She needed no gallant husband to make her a marshal's wife, as in the case of Sans-Gêne, for she was a marshal herself. She should have the croix de guerre with all the stars and a palm, too, for knowing how to cook.
People who could not get into des Huîtres or were not in the secret which, I fear, was selfishly kept by those who were, had to dine at the hotel, where a certain old waiter all young ones being at the front though called mad could be made the object of method if he had not method in madness.
Fried sole and potatoes!! If I had written a volume, whose merit was in elegance, I would not show it to such a man! but he might be an admirable critic upon 'Cobbett's Register, or 'Every Man his own Brewer." "Excessively true," said I; "what shall we order?" "D'abord des huitres d'Ostende," said Vincent; "as to the rest," taking hold of the carte, "deliberare utilia mora utilissima est."
If Madame des Huîtres should come to New York, I wonder yes, she would be overwhelmed by people who had anything like a trench appetite. Soon she would be capitalized, with branches des Huîtres up and down the land, while she would no longer touch a skillet, but would ride in a limousine and grow fat, and I should not like her any more.
There seems to be a scarcity of soap among these young fellows; and I think I shall cut off my mustachios; only Warrington will have nothing to laugh at when I come home. "The Colonel and I went to dine at the Cafe de Paris, and afterwards to the opera. Ask for huitres de Marenne when you dine here.
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