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Updated: June 2, 2025


I asked him after many weeks what he meant, and he said that that was a himene, which a young American had sung at his potations in his village in the Marquesas Islands. I had him repeat "Feery feery!" dozens of times, and finally snatched at an old glee which ran through my mind: "Shoo Fly, don't bother me!" and when I sang it, "I feel, I feel, I feel, I feel like a morning star!"

The words of the first stanza of the "Himene Tatou Arearea" and the refrain were: I teie nei mahana Te tere no oe e Hati Na te moana Ohipa paahiahia No te au Tei tupi i Moorea tamau a Tera te au Ei no te au Tamua a aue Ei reo no oe tau here I te pii raa mai Aue oe Tamarii Tahiti te aroha e A inu i te pia arote faarari Faararirari ta oe Tamarii Tahiti La, Li.

The himene went on continuously, varying with the inspiration of the dancer or the whim of the accordion-player. They snatched this instrument from one another's hands as the mood struck them, and among the natives, men and women alike had facility in its playing.

We sat or lay on the after-deck while the bandsmen on the low rail or hatch maintained a continuous concert. During the several days between our first planning the trip and the going, a song had been written in honor of the junketing, and this they played scores of times before we set foot again in Papeete. It was entitled: "Himene Tatou Arcarea," which meant, "Our Festal Song."

Llewellyn would withdraw his attention to listen to the himene of the musicians thirty feet away, which consisted mostly of familiar American airs, interpolated with bizarre staves and dissonances. One caught a beloved strain, and then it wandered away queerly as if the musician had forgotten the score and had done his best otherwise.

We jogged along, and as we approached Fa'a, I lit a match and looked at my watch. It was nearly two o'clock. The Dummy stopped the horse at Kelly's dance-hall in a palm grove. The building was of bamboo and thatch, with a smooth floor of Oregon pine, and was a former himene house. Kelly had rented it from the church authorities.

She is seventeen, café au lait beaucoup de lait, kohl-eyed, meter-tressed, and slim-bodied. She sings the himene of the battle of the limes and coal and potatoes, with a new stanza concerning the return of the Noa-Noa, and the vengeance of the Tahitian braves upon the pigs of Peretania, Britain. "Ia or a na! Bonjour, Goo' night!" she says impartially, and modestly slips her pareu about her.

After he had finished, wiping the sweat from his brow with a colored kerchief, the himene began. The only advance we have made since the Greeks is, in music. Possibly in painting we have better mediums; but in philosophy, poetry, sculpture, decency, beauty, we have not risen. We cure diseases more skilfully, but we have more; in health we are crippled by our cities and our customs.

The strike or walk-out was broken. With the cessation of the direction of Kelly and his heartening song, the fishermen gradually went back to their routine, and their women folk to the market. The scales were in operation, but the himene, "Hahrayrooyah! I'm a boom! Hahrayrooyah!

"Because of those ears," said Tiura, "all the eels in this lake have very large ears, and it is so because the father of all the Mataiea folk was an eel. We shall see the eels to-morrow, but I must tell you of the chief of the district of Arue, near Papeete, about which M. Tourjee, the American, wrote the himene.

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