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Updated: June 8, 2025
In 1878 he happened to be on the Sacro Monte above Varese at the time I took my holiday; there I joined him, and nearly every year afterwards we were in Italy together. He was always a delightful companion, and perhaps at his gayest on these occasions. "A man's holiday," he would say, "is his garden," and he set out to enjoy himself and to make everyone about him enjoy themselves too.
I saw one year a poor blind lad of about eighteen sitting on a wall by the wayside at Varese, playing the concertina with his whole body, and snorting like a child. The next year the boy no longer snorted, and he played with his fingers only; the year after that he seemed hardly to know whether he was playing or not, it came so easily to him. I know no exception to this rule.
They have been made out in the Lago Maggiore and in the lakes of Varese, Peschiera, and Garda in Lombardy; in Lake Salpi in the Capitanata, and in other parts of Italy. Judging from the objects recovered from these stations, they belonged partly to the Stone and partly to the Bronze age. The pile dwelling of Lagozza is one of the most interesting known to us.
To see his ancestors in effigy on their tombs of precious marbles in one of the most splendid churches in Venice, and in a chapel graced with pictures by Titian and Tintoretto, by Palma, Bellini, Paul Veronese and to be prohibited from selling a marble Memmi to the English for bread for the living Prince Varese!
"Then why do they call you 'the Doge'?" I asked. "Oh, it is a joke. I am a Venetian noble, and I might have been a doge like any one else." "What is your name?" "Here, in Paris, I am Pere Canet," he said. "It was the only way of spelling my name on the register. But in Italy I am Marco Facino Cane, Prince of Varese."
Then while this modern Paris is yet doubting, perhaps a thought may cross his mind of sterner, solitary Lake Iseo the Pallas of the three. She offers her own attractions. The sublimity of Monte Adamello, dominating Lovere and all the lowland like Hesiod's hill of Virtue reared aloft above the plain of common life, has charms to tempt heroic lovers. Nor can Varese be neglected.
Since May 23d he had led his own Cacciatori to the Lombard shores of Lake Maggiore, had defeated the Austrians at Varese, entered Como, routed the enemy afresh at San Fermo, and was now proceeding to Bergamo and Brescia, with the intention of reaching the Trentine Alps, to cut off the enemy's retreat.
I sent memorials to the First Consul; I proposed an agreement with the Emperor of Austria; every one sent me about my business for a lunatic. Come! we will go to Venice; let us set out as beggars, we shall come back millionaires. We will buy back some of my estates, and you shall be my heir! You shall be Prince of Varese!" My head was swimming.
Francesco helped; and the dukes were like statues of the "Gran Commendatore," waiting for Don Giovanni's invitation. Through the loveliest Arcadian scenery of woods and fields and rushing waters the road leads downward from Varese to Castiglione. The Collegiate Church stands on a leafy hill above the town, with fair prospect over groves and waterfalls and distant mountains.
"I am the Prince of Varese; this palace is mine." As he spoke, Emilio sat up in bed, his handsome and noble Venetian head framed in the flowing hangings. At first Clarina laughed one of those irrepressible fits of laughter which seize a girl when she meets with an adventure comic beyond all conception.
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