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Updated: July 27, 2025
My friend, Zaleâ, of Seenawan, did not come with us, he having contracted for the building of the caravansary of Emjessem, but his brother, a rough bold Arab, accompanied us, who assured me to-day, "That all the goods of the ghafalah were the property of Christians and Jews in Tripoli, and the Ghadamseeah merchants were only their commission agents.
A camel will never plunge down a deep descent, but always turn round when it comes to the edge of a precipice. I often rode for several hours with comparative comfort. The camel-drivers never ride when their camels are laden, sometimes suffering as much as the camels themselves. I somewhat offended the self-love of the people of Ghadames. I asked them whether Ghadames was bigger than Seenawan.
From Tripoli to Janzour 3 hours. " Janzour to Zouweeah 9 " " Zouweeah to Beer-el-Hamra 2 " " Beer-el-Hamra to Shouwabeeah 5 " " Shouwabeeah to Wady Lethel 14 " " Wady Lethel to Aâyat 3 " " Aâyat to Yefran 3 " " Yefran to Rujban 18 " " Rujban to Seenawan 4 days. The quickest time, in more general terms, in which the journey can be performed, excluding of course all stoppages, is:
Our route was still south-west, and south, and the prevailing wind ghiblee, or from about the same quarter. On leaving Emjessem, we were met in the afternoon by several friends and relatives of the merchants, who had come from Ghadames in answer or invitation to our letters written at Seenawan.
The greater part of their occupation and amusement is supplied by quarrels. Before leaving Seenawan the merchants dispatched a courier to Ghadames, and Mohammed wrote a letter to the Governor, telling him very pompously: "The English Consul of Ghadames was approaching the city under his protection." Mohammed said he had submitted the letter to the Sheikh Makouran, and it was approved.
We now entered upon the most difficult, and the most critical part of our route in this season, and I commended myself and the people again to Eternal Providence. 20th. Seenawan. I find it impossible to write daily in this part of the route.
Even a Seenawan Arab was frightened at my coming near his tent, in dread of another quarrel or attack during the night. All our people more or less were alarmed and agitated, although we numbered sixty in the presence of five Touaricks! I thought in myself, What arrant cowards you are! To cover their cowardice they pretended the Sheikh had hundreds of people not far off.
The whole force of the Rais is not a hundred Arabs, and poor miserable fellows they are, with two or three horses placed at their disposal. With such inconsiderable means the Pacha presumes to hold in the heart of The Desert this important commercial city, and its dependencies of Seenawan and Derge! The French manage matters very differently in Algeira.
Seenawan is but a handful of date-trees, thrown upon the wide waste of The Sahara, with one or two pools of sluggish running water, sheltering beneath its palms thirty or forty inhabitants. There are four or five spots of vegetation, gems of emerald on the rugged brow of The Desert.
Horses could come easily from Tripoli to The Mountains in two days. The camels could undertake the journey from The Mountains to Seenawan in three or four days. Horses then could again accomplish the rest in two days. In all, seven days. Were Europeans in possession of this country, horses and mules would soon take the place of camels, for all quick travelling.
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