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Updated: June 4, 2025
The gentle Kashmiri is an inveterate and skilful thief, and the less jewellery she can make up her mind to "do with," the more at ease will her mind be. But if she must needs copy the lady of whom we read, that "Rich and rare were the gems she wore,"
My party consisted of myself, a thoroughly competent servant and passable interpreter, Hassan Khan, a Panjabi; a seis, of whom the less that is said the better; and Mando, a Kashmiri lad, a common coolie, who, under Hassan Khan's training, developed into an efficient travelling servant, and later into a smart khitmatgar.
For behind the little group of servants, who sat apart, enjoying their own meal in their own fashion, stood twelve apathetic Kashmiri ponies, unconsidered martyrs to man's lust of achievement, who endured to the full the miseries of mountaineering, and reaped none of its rewards. Dinner over, the fire must be allowed to die down.
Nevertheless, there is a pervading tone and style which would identify a Kashmiri villa transplanted into Christendom. Two isolated hills overlooking the city, and visible afar off to the weary wayfarer, are crowned and flanked with fortifications and temples of one or the other religion.
"The Kashmiri Song. It makes me think of India. I heard a man sing it in Kashmere last year, but not like that. What a wonderful voice! I wonder who it is?" Arbuthnot looked at her curiously, surprised at the sudden ring of interest in her tone, and the sudden animation of her face. "You say you have no emotion in your nature, and yet that unknown man's singing has stirred you deeply.
The shop of Mohamed Jan is well worth a visit, for three good reasons first, because his Oriental carpets from Penjdeh and Khiva are of the best; second, because his house is one of the first specimens of a high-class native dwelling existing; and third, because he never worries his customers nor touts for orders but, then, he is a Persian, and not a Kashmiri!
After a short experience of Kashmiri pertinacity and business methods, you cease from politeness and curtly threaten the river. Certainly the Kashmiri are exceedingly clever and excellent workers in many ways. Their wood-carving, almost always executed in rich brown walnut, is excellent; and their old papier-mâché lacquer is very good.
Sitting near us was a lovely little Kashmiri boy of about eight, in a faded orange coat, and a turban exactly like his father's. His curled black eyelashes were so long that they made a soft gloom over the upper part of the little golden face. The perfect bow of the scarlet lips, the long eyes, the shy smile, suggested an Indian Eros.
On the wrist of one arm was a curious gold bangle that must have held a large ruby, for at times the sun flicked from the moving wrist splashes of red wine. Indeed the whole atmosphere of the girl was simplicity and beauty. "No wonder they call her the Rose Queen," Barlow was communing with himself. For the oval face with its olive skin, as fair as a Kashmiri girl's, was certainly beautiful.
And, while travelling in Kashmir is easy and comfortable enough along beaten tracks, yet the petty worries connected with all matters of transport and supply are incessant, and become much more serious if one cannot speak or understand Hindustani. It takes some little time for the Western mind to grasp the fact that the Kashmiri cannot and must not be treated on the "man and brothel" principle.
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