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Updated: July 8, 2025
Many fountains have been established within the last few years, and the site of that once formidable building the Bastile is now occupied by one. Its situation is too confined for so handsome a structure, and I had some difficulty in finding my way to it. Quos duro cernis simulatos marmore fructus Hujus Nympha loci credidit esse suos. Which may be thus translated,
After eight weeks in Venice, you were completely Venetian, from your fan to the ridiculous little crepe shawl you wore because an Italian prince had told you that centuries were usually needed to teach a woman how to wear a shawl, but that you had been born with the art, and the shoulders! Anything but a watery street was repulsive to you. Cobblestones? 'Ordinario, duro, brutto! A gondola?
"'I would do it, with great pleasure. "'But are you going to be here for some time? "'Yes, it is probable. "He asked me what I came to Castro Duro for, and I told him that I had no other object than to visit Don Calixto Garcia Guerrero. "Astonishment on the priest's face. "'You know him? "'Yes, I met him in Rome. "'Do you know where he lives? "'No. "'Then I will take you.
When we read it, we cannot help remembering the language of another exile, who while he tells us Come sa di sale Lo pane altrui, e com' è duro calle Lo scendere e 'l salir per l' altrui scale can yet refuse the advances of his factious city thus: 'If Florence cannot be entered honorably, I will never set foot within her walls. And what?
In this he set himself an enormous task, which was not notable for results; but he hoped to succeed in conquering the district completely, and then to extend his sphere of action to others and yet others. After being a fortnight in Castro Duro, Laura went to Biarritz, as was her custom every year. Caesar was left alone.
Today a mill shuts down, tomorrow a house falls in; but Castro Duro continues to live with her venerated traditions and her holy principles, not permitting outsiders devoid of religion and patriotism to disturb her existence, not spotting the most holy rights of the Church, our mother; enveloped in dust, in dirt, and in filth, asleep in the sun, in the midst of her grainless fields.
The river life was ever fascinating to the ape-man. He found pleasure in watching the ungainly antics of Duro, the hippopotamus, and keen sport in tormenting the sluggish crocodile, Gimla, as he basked in the sun.
To be in Castro Duro and not visit Don Caesar Moncada's house is a veritable crime of lese-art. Senor Moncada, who is a most intelligent person, has gathered in his aristocratic residence a collection of precious things, old pictures, antiques, sculptures of the XV and XVI Centuries, badges of the Inquisition.
But he was not offended to the point of refusing the silver duro which Byrne offered him with a non-committal speech as if nothing extraordinary had passed between them. "I must make haste on board now," said Byrne, then. "Vaya usted con Dios," muttered the gnome. And this interview ended with a sarcastic low sweep of the hat which was replaced at the same perilous angle as before.
Afterwards I went into the big chapel, which serves also as a pantheon for the Dukes of Castro Duro, whose tombs you find in the side niches of the presbytery.
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