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"We shall stay here a few days more that you may see Srinagar, and then they tow us up into the Dal Lake opposite the Gardens of the Mogul Emperors. And if you think this beautiful what will you say then?" I shut my eyes and see still that first meal of my new life.
At 10 P.M. I got four more coolies from a village, apparently chiefly inhabited by dogs, who deeply resented our proximity, and at 2 o'clock this morning we reached the haven where we would be Avantipura. This morning I discharged the Srinagar coolies and took a fresh lot, who pull better and talk less. How differently things may be put and yet the truth retained.
Fortunately the Spill Canal, cut above Srinagar to carry off the flood water, took off some of the pressure; the bund, also, is three feet higher than it was then, but it gave way in two places one somewhere near the top, and the other just below the Bank, letting in the river to a depth of ten feet over the low-lying quarter.
We should be quite alone, at the start, with just a doctor and our Kashmiri soldiers." "And I it would be impossible?" He pressed her hands. "For the first few years certainly. Everything would be raw; and the work incessant and absorbing. But later on, who can tell? We might see what could be done." "And the nearest I could get to you, so as to live more or less within reach?" "Srinagar.
I shall only note the preparations I made in view of my journey toward Thibet. I spent six days at Srinagar, making long excursions into the enchanting surroundings of the city, examining the numerous ruins which testify to the ancient prosperity of this region, and studying the strange customs of the country.
Bargaining is an invariable necessity in all shopping in Kashmir, as everywhere else in the East, where the market value of an article is not what it costs to produce, but what can be squeezed for it out of the purse of the usually ignorant purchaser. Three things are essential to the successful prosecution of shopping in Srinagar: Unlimited time.
A command of emphatic language, sufficient to impress the native mind with the need for keeping to the point. A liver in such thorough working order as to insure an extraordinary supply of good temper. Without all these attributes the acquisition of objects of "bigotry and vertue" in Srinagar is attended with pain and tribulation.
When entering the city one sees a range of barks and floating houses in which entire families reside. The tops of the far-off, snow-covered mountains were caressed by the last rays of the setting sun, when we glided between the wooden houses of Srinagar, which closely line both banks of the river.
We left Baramula in high spirits to accomplish the five-and-thirty miles which still stretched between us and Srinagar.
Passing through into the open country, we found ourselves on a good road good, that is to say, for riding or marching, as no roads in Kashmir are adapted for wheeled traffic excepting the main artery from Baramula to Srinagar, and the greater portion of the route from Srinagar to Gulmarg.
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