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To be cornered in these would be as unpleasant as in Harlem or Erie. From this temple we passed through a covered colonnade and entered an ante-room, where several officers and servants were in attendance. Here we left our overcoats and were shown to another apartment where we met the sargootchay. His Excellency shook hands with me after the European manner.
We attempted conversation which expressed our delight at meeting and the good-will of our respective countries toward each other. The talk was rather slow, as it went through many translations in passing between me and my host. Tea and smoke were of immense service in filling up the chinks. When I wished to say anything to the sargootchay I spoke in French to Major Boroslofski, who sat near me.
The Chinese boil their tea and give it a bitter flavor that the Russians are careful to avoid. They drink it quite strong and hot, using no milk or sugar. Out of deference to foreign tastes they brought sugar for us to use at our liking. After the tea and sweetmeats the sargootchay ordered champagne, in which we drank each other's health.
The major then addressed his Bouriat interpreter in Russian. This interpreter turned to a Mongol-Chinese official at his side and spoke to him in Mongol. The latter translated into Chinese for the understanding of his chief. The replies of the sargootchay returned by the same route. I have a suspicion that very little of what we really said ever reached its destination.
I noticed a Russian stove in one corner and a samovar in the adjoining room. The sargootchay had been newly appointed, and arrived only a week before. I presume his housekeeping was not well under way. The interview was as interesting as one could expect where neither party had anything important to say to the other.
The town is occupied by merchants, laborers, and government employees, all dwelling without families. The sargootchay is changed every three years, and it was hinted that his short term of office sufficed to give him a fortune. The houses were only one story high and plastered with black mud or cement.
After an early dinner we went to Maimaichin to visit the sargootchay, or Chinese governor. We passed under a gateway surmounted with the double-headed eagle, and were saluted by the Cossack guard as we left the borders of the Russian empire.
After the ceremony of introduction was ended the sargootchay signed for us to be seated. He took his own place on a divan, and gave the 'illustrious stranger' the post of honor near him. Tea and cigars were brought, and we had a few moments of smoky silence. The room was rather bare of furniture, and the decorations on the walls were Russian and Chinese in about equal proportion.
At the close of the interview I received invitation to dine with His Excellency two days later and witness a theatrical performance. Our adieus were made in the European manner, and after leaving the sargootchay we visited a temple in the northern part of the town.
His son, a youth of sixteen, was then presented, and made the acquaintance of Major Boroslofski. The sargootchay had a pleasing and interesting face of the true Chinese type, with no beard beyond a slight mustache, and a complexion rather paler than most of his countrymen. He wore the dress of a Mandarin, with the universal long robe and a silk jacket with wide sleeves.
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