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Updated: June 17, 2025
My family went to Rhyl last Thursday, and on Saturday I joined them there, in company with O'Sullivan, who arrived in the Behama from Lisbon that morning. We went by way of Chester, and found S waiting for us at the Rhyl station. Rhyl is a most uninteresting place, a collection of new lodging-houses and hotels, on a long sand-beach, which the tide leaves bare almost to the horizon.
Just where we landed was a small cove, or bight, which gave us, at high tide, a few square feet of sand-beach between the sea and the bottom of the hill. This was the only landing-place. Directly before us rose the perpendicular height of four or five hundred feet. How we were to get hides down, or goods up, upon the table-land on which the Mission was situated, was more than we could tell.
A picturesque burial spot, amid eternal shades, with the lullaby of the ocean. Saturday, December 5th. Amused this morning, watching some sedate old baboons sitting on the sand-beach opposite, and apparently observing the ship very attentively.
A life-saving station had recently been erected north of the first grove, and there is another fourteen miles further south. The two Chicamicomio settlements of scattered houses are each nearly a mile in length, and are separated by a high, bald sand-beach of about the same length, which was once heavily wooded; but the wind has blown the sand into the forest and destroyed it.
It is far superior to our monotonous sand-beach in its picturesqueness of natural beauty, in the American character of the visitors, and in the reasonableness of hotel charges, as well as the excellence of the service." The oldest of the large hotels now in existence at the beach is the Rockland House, which was opened in 1854 by Colonel Nehemiah Ripley, who was proprietor for many years.
Now, if there were hills around, and a nice clean sand-beach, I should like to spend months here." "Too many mosquitoes!" "Besides," said Mr. Hume, striking in, "there are hills." "Where? Over there? Why, that's a cloud!" "Perhaps so; but the cloud rests on a hill-top. Isn't that so, Muata?" "Those be the gates to the Place of Rest." "By Jimminy! How far?" This was something to be excited about.
The army lay in camp upon the sand-beach in the neighborhood of the mouth of the Rio Grande for several weeks, awaiting the arrival of transports to carry it to its new field of operations. The transports were all sailing vessels.
I separated myself from the rest and sat down on a rock, just where the sea ran in and formed a fine spouting horn. Compared with the plain, dull sand-beach of the rest of the coast, this grandeur was as refreshing as a great rock in a weary land.
The road, if road it can be called, where all marks of hoofs or wheels are erased by each succeeding tide, runs along a hard sand-beach, with occasional projections of small points of level ground, ten or fifteen miles, and the surf, even when the tide has fallen considerably, frequently reaches to the bellies of the horses.
The guide spurs on his Indian mustang, that like a goat scrambles over the craggy track; for a moment or two he disappears, being hidden by a jutting rock; we hear him yell a sort of 'war-whoop, awakening the echoes in the encircling hills; reckless of falling, we too spur on, dash round the splintered point, and slide rather than canter down a shelving bank, to reach a second sand-beach, over which the guide is galloping and shouting.
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