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Updated: June 17, 2025
We were about twenty minutes in getting to the top, close to which stood a stone or piece of rock, very much resembling a church altar, and about the size of one. We were now on an extensive moory elevation, having the brook which forms the Rhyadr a little way on our left. We went nearly due west, following no path, for path there was none, but keeping near the brook.
"At the house of the Rhyadr." "I suppose you live there as servant?" "No, sir, I live there as master." "Is the good woman I saw there your wife?" "In truth, sir, she is." "And the young girl I saw your daughter?" "Yes, sir, she is my daughter." "And how came the good woman not to tell me you were her husband?" "I suppose, sir, you did not ask who I was, and she thought you did not care to know."
"There," said she, "this is the man to show you over the hills; few know the paths better." I thanked her, and telling the man I was ready, bade him lead the way. We set out, the two dogs of which I have spoken attending us, and seemingly very glad to go. We ascended the side of the hog- backed hill to the north of the Rhyadr.
I made the clerk, who appeared almost fit to be a clergyman, a small present, and returned to the inn. After paying my bill I flung my satchel over my shoulder, took my umbrella by the middle in my right hand, and set off for the Rhyadr. I entered the narrow glen at the western extremity of the town and proceeded briskly along.
I then asked him whether he had ever seen Sycharth and the Rhyadr; he told me that he had never visited Sycharth, but had seen the Rhyadr more than once. He then smiled and said that there was a ludicrous anecdote connected with the Rhyadr, which he would relate to me.
After sitting on the verge of the hollow for a considerable time I got up, and directed my course towards the house in front of the grove. I turned down the path which brought me to the brook which runs from the northern glen into the waters discharged by the Rhyadr, and crossing it by stepping-stones, found myself on the lowest spur of the hog-backed hill. A steep path led towards the house.
WHEN I had rested myself and finished the buttermilk, I got up, and making the good woman a small compensation for her civility, inquired if I could get to Bala without returning to Llan Rhyadr. "Oh yes," said she, "if you cross the hills for about five miles you will find yourself upon a road which will take you straight to Bala."
We should have gone alone." "Perhaps you are right," said I; "at any rate we could not have fared worse than we are faring now." I presently paid for what I had had, inquired the way to Llan Rhyadr, and departed.
Llan Rhyadr is a small place, having nothing remarkable in it save an ancient church and a strange little antique market-house, standing on pillars. It is situated at the western end of an extensive valley and at the entrance of a glen. A brook or rivulet runs through it, which comes down the glen from the celebrated cataract, which is about four miles distant to the west.
On my knocking at the door a woman made her appearance, of whom I asked in Welsh whether I was in the road to Llan Rhyadr. She said that I was out of it, but that if I went towards the south I should see a path on my left which would bring me to it. I asked her how far it was to Llan Rhyadr. "Four long miles," she replied. "And what is the name of the place where we are now?" said I.
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