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Updated: June 26, 2025
Six Albanian settlements lie on these northern slopes of the Sila San Giorgio, Vaccarizza, San Cosimo, Macchia, San Demetrio Corone, and Santa Sofia d' Epiro. San Demetrio is the largest of them, and thither, after an undisturbed night's rest at the house of my kind host the last, I fear, for many days to come I drove in the sunlit hours of next morning.
I heard, however, their grunting and the snapping of boughs in the undergrowth: and in that clear delusive air it seemed but three minutes' work to reach the next ridge. I followed then, confidently enough and made my first acquaintance with the Corsican macchia by plunging into a cleft twenty feet deep between two rocks of granite.
They keep the fragrance of the macchia yet; and if, as a child, you ever opened that wardrobe, you recall it at this moment." "Yes," said I, "that was the scent." My father leaned and gazed at the island with dim eyes.
The road shunned its depths and, leading me down through the magnificent fringe of it, brought me out upon an open slope, if that can be called open which is densely covered to the height of a man's knees at times, and again to the height of his breast, with my old friend the macchia. It was now twilight and I felt myself weary.
After a stern religious upbringing under the paternal roof at Macchia and in the college of San Demetrio, he was sent to Naples to complete his education.
Disgusted with the clamorous and intriguing bustle of Naples, he retired, at the early age of 34, to his natal village of Macchia, throwing over one or two offers of lucrative worldly appointments.
"O principessa," said he, with a wondering grin, "who are these that travel with royal crowns? If we were true folk of the macchia, now, we could hold them at a fine ransom." She took the crown, examined it for a moment, and turning to my father, spoke to him swiftly in French. "How came you by this, O Englishman?" "That," answered my father, stiffly, "I decline to tell you.
"And to you, O lady, salutation!" my father made answer, with a bow. "Though English," he went on, slipping easily into the dialect she used with her followers, "I am Corsican enough to forbear from asking their names of gentlefolk in the macchia; but mine is John Constantine, and I am very much at your service." "My men call me the Princess Camilla."
But the Genoese have cut down my vines long since, and now they have fired the roof over these my tenants and driven them into the macchia, whence they send message to me to deliver them.
So they protected him now, and oftentimes for more than a year he came out of the macchia, and the villagers gave him all they could, and he went up and down Ruscino as if he were a king; and this lasted for several seasons, and, as we learned afterwards, Don Silverio Frascara had cognisance of this fact, but did nothing. Then the judge struck his fist with anger on his desk.
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