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Updated: June 9, 2025


In the carriage there sat an old Signorina; she recited poetry, and made: with her eyes 'che bella cosa! "About ten o'clock at night we were in Baveno, drank tea, and slept, whilst Lago Maggiore splashed under our window. The lake and the Borromaen island we were to see by daylight. "'Lord God! thought I, 'is this all? A scene as quiet and riant as this we have at home!

In return for your disinterestedness, we kick you down, either upon Baveno or upon Stresa, or across the lake, if you prefer it. The man is harmless. He is hired by a particular worshipper of the signorina's voice, who affects to have first discovered it when she was in England, and is a connoisseur, a millionaire, a Greek, a rich scoundrel, with one indubitable passion, for which I praise him.

Illuminated by thoughts like these, the hero and the heroine are once more drawn together; and when at night the guests go back to Baveno, and the hero is left in his island villa alone, he betakes himself to a boat, and awaits the approach of the morning.

Most interesting was his wife, Donna Emilia, well known for her brilliant powers of discussion and her beautiful qualities as a hostess both at the Peruzzi palace in Florence and in this villa, where one meets men of light and leading from every part of the world. From Florence we went on to the Italian lakes, staying especially at Baveno, Lugano, and Cadenabbia.

"You dog the signorina! I swore to scotch you at last." "I left Milan for the purpose don't you see? Act fairly, my Beppo, and let us go up to the signorina together decently." "Ay, ay, my little reptile! You'll find no Austrians here. Cry out to them to come to you from Baveno. If the Motterone grew just one tree! Saints! one would serve."

I tell you to go." Beppo read the eyes of his young mistress. "Signorina," he stooped forward mysteriously, "signorina, that fellow is in Baveno. I saw him this morning." "Good, good. And now go, my friend." "The signor Agostino," he remarked loudly, to attract the old man; "the signor Agostino may think proper to advise you." "The signor Agostino will laugh at nothing that you say to-day, Beppo.

There is not an easier or a pleasanter height to climb than the Motterone, if, in Italian heat, you can endure the disappointment of seeing the summit, as you ascend, constantly flit away to a farther station. It seems to throw its head back, like a laughing senior when children struggle up for kissings. The party of five had come through the vines from Stresa and from Baveno.

It was foolish moreover to suppose anything could have happened to him after putting off from Baveno by water to rejoin me, for the evening was absolutely windless and more than sufficiently clear and the lake as calm as glass. Besides I had unlimited confidence in his power to take care of himself in a much tighter place.

I felt even slightly anxious for him, wondering at possible mischances. Then I reflected that in case of an accident on the lake, that is of his continued absence from Baveno Mrs. Pallant would already have dispatched me a messenger.

"To-day we have seen the Lake of Orta, have walked for some miles among its vineyards and chestnuts; and thence have come, by Baveno, to this place; having seen by the way, I believe, the most beautiful part of the Lago Maggiore, and certainly the most cheerful, complete and extended example of fine scenery I have ever fallen in with.

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