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Affecting above all is their dependence on the stranger, the whimsical stranger who swims out of their ken, yet whom Providence sometimes restores. The best of them at any rate are in their line great artists. On the swarming feast- days, on the strange feast-night of the Redentore, their steering is a miracle of ease.

It is lined on the right hand by a row of poor dwellings, swarming with gondoliers' children. A garden wall runs along the other side, over which I can see pomegranate-trees in fruit and pergolas of vines. Far beyond are more low houses, and then the sky, swept with sea-breezes, and the masts of an ocean-going ship against the dome and turrets of Palladio's Redentore. This is my home.

In Turner's picture in the National Gallery entitled "San Benedetto, looking towards Fusina" there is a ruined tower where Stucky's mill now stands. The steps of the Redentore are noble, but within it is vast and cold and inhuman, and the statues in its niches are painted on the flat. Tintoretto's "Descent from the Cross" in the church proper is very vivid.

This is the first of his works in which the influence of Bellini rather than that of his family is traceable, while of the "Redentore" Madonna at Venice, of about five years later, Mr Bernhard Bernson says that, "As a composition no work of the kind by Giovanni Bellini even rivals it."

So she began talking very fast of the Bellini Madonnas in the church of the Redentore, whose great dome towered black against the hovering reflection of the city lights, and of how they were not Bellinis after all, and since experts could make such bad blunders, whom were you to trust?

In the sacristy, however, the chilled visitor will be restored to life by a truly delightful Madonna and Child, with two little celestial musicians playing a lullaby, said to be by Bellini, but more probably by Alvise Vivarini, and two companion pictures of much charm. Like the Salute, the Redentore was a votive offering to heaven for stopping a plague.

Busy water The lantern concerts Venice and modern inventions Fireworks in perfection S. Giorgio Maggiore Palladian architecture Two Tintorettos The Life of S. Benedict Realistic wood-carving A Giudecca garden The Redentore A bridge of boats A regatta The view from the Giudecca House-hunting in Venice.

At night you can see the lights along the Lido, and all the campaniles over there in Venice. Then the Redentore sweeps up so grandly " Lawrence slapped a bending tulip. "Yes, the world lies far away." "And you are afraid to lose sight of it," she turned on him swiftly.

Two only of the national religious festivals yet survive the Republic, that of the church of the Redentore on the Giudecca, and that of the church of the Salute on the Grand Canal, both votive churches, built in commemoration of the city's deliverances from the pest in 1578 and 1630.

Not that any fault can be found with S. Giorgio Maggiore as a detail in the landscape: to me it will always be the perfect disposition of buildings in the perfect place; but then, on the other hand, the campanile was not Palladio's, nor was the façade, while the principal attraction of his dome is its green copper. The church of the Redentore, on the Giudecca, is much more thoroughly Palladian.