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Updated: May 29, 2025
The Resident therefore led back his party by the way they had come, dismissed them to their homes, and returned down river to Sibu, after sending a command to those remaining on the hill that they should present themselves forthwith at Kapit.
Of the Dyak language I had a slight knowledge, but this is practically useless at Kapit and in the interior, the natives around being, both in language and customs, totally unlike Dyaks. Daybreak on the 16th of June saw us on board the Aline, en route for Sibu.
The bright sunny afternoon wore away rather monotonously, for not a living thing was to be seen, excepting occasionally a small Dyak habitation, with its small strip of clearing whereon the owners grew their "padi" or rice. At last, as the sun was setting like a ball of fire behind the distant mountains, we heard the faint sound of gongs, which announced that we were approaching Kapit.
A Government expedition was formed to remedy this state of affairs, the result being their total defeat, and the order to remove below Kapit which they had now obeyed. Having rounded the corner of the next reach, we arrived off the little wooden fort which protects the village of Kapit.
We were entertained one evening during our stay at Kapit by a war-dance of Kayans on the terrace outside the fort. A large crowd of some 200 from the canoes down river had assembled to witness the dancing, and the bright moonlight and flaring torches shedding an uncertain light over their dark faces and barbaric dress and ornaments, presented a picture not readily forgotten.
During my short stay at Kapit I added very few new specimens to my collections of birds and butterflies; in fact, it was the worst collecting-ground that I struck during more than a year's wanderings in Borneo.
While at Kapit I made frequent inquiries through an interpreter concerning this practice, but my questions as to its existence were invariably met with an indignant denial. My letter the Illustrated was good enough to take notice of, and it appeared in that journal on September 4th, 1880.
The latter, however, can scarcely be called a village, having consisted, till quite recently, of but two large native houses. The country and climate around Kapit are quite different to other parts of Sarawak, the former being mountainous, rocky, and free from jungle, and the latter temperate and cool.
Hose at once decided to go up to Fort Kapit and punish these Dayaks, and gave me leave to accompany him and Shelford. So one morning at six o'clock we boarded a large steam launch with a party of the Rangers, mentioned above, as the Rajah's troops.
Leave Kanowit Scenery War Canoes Arrive at Kapit Wild Tribes Kayan Burials Head Feast Lat His Family Tattooing The Sumpitan Kayan and Dyak War Dances The Kok-Goo The Bock Expedition to Central Borneo Cannibalism Return to Kuching.
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