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Updated: June 16, 2025


Mahommed Kafa was one of our best friends at Ghât, and had always a smile to greet us with a great relief in a country where most of the people you meet have a frown on their brows and their mouths closely muffled up. This man is the most considerable merchant of Ghât, and exerted himself greatly to procure us an escort of Kailouees. I gave a white burnouse to him and his son.

This is my only plan, for I have told them a hundred times not to allow strangers to come and molest my privacy. 30th. The noisy drums have ceased, and most of the Targhee visitors have departed. The people, however, still bring news of razzias, Kailouees with Kailouees. A messenger has returned with his report about the boat; it is quite safe and in good hands, at Seloufeeat.

Barth's Comparisons A Slave Caravan Granite Rocks Beating Women The Bird of the Desert Desolate Region Our Relations with the Kailouees. The departure from Ghât was, for most of us, an exciting moment. So far I had considered myself comparatively on familiar ground; for although I had followed different routes, the great points of Mourzuk and Ghât were well known to me.

During the night some mischievous people again drove away all the camels of the Kailouees, as well as ours. This disturbed us much, and we anticipated fresh extortion and plunder; but we were assured that we had now nothing serious to apprehend. 28th. We stopped here all day to get back our camels. The caravan was delayed, and I wrote a detailed account of our two affairs to Government.

It would appear that En-Noor is the aged Sheikh, the Sheikh Kebeer, of the Kailouees, whom all respect, and to whom all look up in cases of difficulty and distress. With En-Noor always authority remains, whilst all the other Sheikhs are being changed some every year. En-Noor, nevertheless, appears to be a great miser, continually amassing wealth in money, merchandise, or camels.

A nephew of Sultan En-Noor came to Seloufeeat this morning, having heard, probably, of our arrival. By him I wrote to En-Noor, from whom we expect an answer to-morrow. In the evening eleven camels of the Kailouees were still missing, and six of ours. Nevertheless, our people determined to go on next morning. I felt much discouraged this evening.

The Kailouees have some servants with them, very good-humoured black fellows. Of the Tanelkums I know little; but Haj Omer, who will accompany us to Kanou, seems a man of courage and tact. There are two or three venerable old men amongst these Tuaricks, together with some young ones. They all feel the civilising effect of visiting Mourzuk.

In two hours, however, the Kailouees came and told us that there was no more water in the skins; that the camels were restless, knowing that a well was ahead; and that it was better to move on at once, and make for the well of Aisou, that marks the commencement of the Aheer territory.

My old broken white umbrella attracts some attention amongst the Kailouees. They all make a trial of it. Strong umbrellas would be very useful during the hot summer months for all Saharan travellers. I to-day asked the son of Shafou how his father liked the sword. An unfortunate question.

Leave Seloufeeat "City of Marabouts" Fair Promises People of Aheer Aspect of the Country Extraordinary Reports A Flying Saint Prophecies A Present Expense of our forced Passage Hopes Fears The Marabouts Geology The coming down of the Wady Inundation Restoration of our Camels Maharees from En-Noor El-Fadeea Arab Tuaricks Maghata Picturesque Wady Rainy Season Another Flood Dangerous Position Kailouees and Blacks The Escort arrives The Marabout Population Reported Brigands The Walad Suleiman Pleasant Valley Escort leave us Difficulty of satisfying them Robbery Proceed to Tintalous Encampment The Sultan A Speech We wait in vain for Supper Want of Food.

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