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Updated: June 25, 2025
That night, when Nigel came in from Sennoures, she said to him: "What is the meaning of those tassels made of shells that Egyptians sometimes wear round their necks?" "What sort of shells?" he asked. "Cowries." "Cowries oh, they're supposed to be a charm against the evil eye and bad spirits. Where have you seen one?" "On a donkey-boy up the Nile, at Luxor." She changed the conversation.
Stuart, the fat Birmingham clergyman, was thrashing out a question of piastres with a noisy donkey-boy, and the others were joining in with chaff and advice. Then the hubbub died away, the party from above came down the ladder, there were "good-nights," the shutting of doors, and the little steamer lay silent, dark, and motionless in the shadow of the high Halfa bank.
"He went to Egypt after he let his place, bought some land there, in the Fayyūm, I believe, and has been living on it a good deal. I think he has been making some experiments in farming." "And does he believe in the truth and honesty of the average donkey-boy?" "I don't know. But I must confess I have heard him extol the merits of the Bedouins."
The barber, seeing his place plundered, caught hold of the donkey-boy and said to him, "Bring me thy mother" But he answered, saying, "She is not my mother; she is a sharper who hath cozened much people and stolen my ass."
There is no trottoir, and as you ride through the streets you mingle with the people on foot. Those who are in your way, upon being warned by the shouts of the donkey-boy, move very slightly aside, so as to leave you a narrow lane, through which you pass at a gallop. In this way you glide on delightfully in the very midst of crowds, without being inconvenienced or stopped for a moment.
"Hamza is he your servant?" she asked, with an apparent irrelevance, that was not really irrelevance. "He is a donkey-boy at Luxor." "Yes. He used not to be my donkey-boy. He has only been my donkey-boy since since my husband has gone. They say in Luxor he is really a dervish." "They say many things in Luxor." "They call him the praying donkey-boy. Has he too been to Mecca?"
Behind them the whole party was strung along the bank in varying stages of jolting and discomfort, a brown-faced, noisy donkey-boy running after each donkey. Looking back, they could see the little lead-coloured stern-wheeler, with the gleam of Mrs. Belmont's handkerchief from the deck.
SKETCH OF A STREET CHARACTER OF CAIRO. The Caireen donkey-boy is quite a character, and mine in particular was a perfect original.
In Egypt your Nubian sailor prays in the stern of your dahabiyeh; and your Egyptian boatman prays by the rudder of your boat; and your black donkey-boy prays behind a red rock in the sand; and your camel-man prays when you are resting in the noontide, watching the far-off quivering mirage, lost in some wayward dream.
"Oh, but I'll go with you to your donkey," he said. "I suppose you came on a donkey? Or was it in a boat?" "No; I rode." "Then let me look for your donkey-boy." "He went to see friends in the village, but no doubt he's come back. I'll find him easily." But he insisted on accompanying her.
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