Vietnam or Thailand ? Vote for the TOP Country of the Week !
Updated: May 2, 2025
Making Srinagar my headquarters, I spent two months in travelling in Kashmir, half the time in a native house-boat on the Jhelum and Pohru rivers, and the other half on horseback, camping wherever the scenery was most attractive.
As I wished to shorten my journey by two days, I ordered my carriers to leave at dawn from the other side of the lake, which I crossed in a boat, and joined them and my horse at the foot of the mountain chain which separates the valley of Srinagar from the Sind gorge.
We were glad enough to leave Srinagar, as that place has been undoubtedly trying lately, being extremely hot and relaxing.
Both cities are "smelly," though Venice, even at its worst, stands many degrees above the incredible filth of Srinagar. Finally both cities are within sight of snowy ranges; although it seems hardly fair to place in comparison the majestic range that overhangs Srinagar and the somewhat distant and sketchy view of the Alps as seen from Venice. Here, I think, all resemblance ceases.
Glad were we, and probably gladder still our weary horses, to draw up before the uninviting-looking dâk bungalow, knowing that only thirty-five miles of level and open road lay now between us and Srinagar. The dâk bungalow of Baramula is, upon the whole, the worst we have yet sampled. Strolling out to have a look at the town of Baramula, I shivered to see a heap of snow piled up against the wall.
We had arranged to start with a party of three other boats up the river, visiting Atchibal with our friends, and then going up the Lidar Valley, while they retraced their way to Srinagar. The most popular bachelor in Kashmir was appointed commodore, and deputed to set the pace and arrange rendezvous.
No casual reader would have dreamed that the narrative had been written by a bride upon her honeymoon. He read on, read of their journey up the river to Srinagar, punted by native boatmen, and again, as she spoke of their sad, droning chant, she compared it all to a dream.
In Srinagar one can buy native trunks or yakdans which are cheap, strong, and portable; and the covered creels or "kiltas" serve admirably for the stowage of kitchen utensils, food, and oddments. The following list may prove useful to any one who has not already been "east of Suez," and who may therefore not be too proud to profit by another's experience:
Walter, having pawed the ground in feverish impatience for some days, had gone off into a region said to be full of bara singh; so we decided to possess our souls in patience for a little time, and remain quietly in Srinagar. Accordingly, instead of unpacking our "detonating musquetoons," we exhumed our evening clothes, and began life in Srinagar with a cheerful dinner at the Residency.
My wife having gone to lunch at the Residency this afternoon, I walked half-way up the Takht-i-Suleiman, whose sharp, rock-strewn pyramid rises a thousand feet above Srinagar.
Word Of The Day
Others Looking