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Updated: June 23, 2025
Asking about the arrival of Shafou, he observed, "Haj Ahmed is our Sultan. I'm not a Touarick. God help if I were a Touarick." He then took me by the hands, and led me to the women's apartments to show me to his wife and daughters.
I used vainly all my eloquence in Arabic to convince him of this error, which has been propagated since the removal of Asker Ali from the Pashalic of Tripoli at the instance of the British Consul. I then spoke to his Excellency of the necessity of sending some trifling presents to the Queen of England, as a sign of friendship, begging him to speak to Shafou.
I and the Germans go, with Hateetah and Shafou, the difficult one; and we leave the heavy luggage and the caravan to go the easy route. This, at least, is the arrangement talked of this evening. The morrow may bring something new. The Tuaricks who arrived to-day expected a supper: Hateetah sent to the Germans to find them one; the Germans referred them to Moknee; and we provided.
Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf whose voluminous name we found it quite easy to learn under these circumstances is cousin of the Sultan Shafou, and a very old man; but we cannot hope that in these frugal regions the gout will interfere in our favour, and put a stop to this unprovoked foray. The weather has been cool to-day.
This little place has one large square, called Esh-Shelly الشلّي the general rendezvous of business and gossip, and where Shafou and all the subordinate Sheikhs administer justice. Here is held the Souk, where everything important is done. But the town-councils and state-councils of the Sheikhs are generally held in the open air.
The son of Shafou said that he did not agree to conduct us to Aheer an assertion we contradicted strongly. At length he exclaimed: "Although I did not agree to this, I will nevertheless conduct you," making a new favour of an old bargain. When the meeting separated, there was another affair brought on the carpet by Hateetah and Waled Shafou.
The Hebrew bards, standing on the heights of Lebanon, and looking westwards, saw nothing but innumerable clusters of islets in the dim and undefined distance of the waters of the Mediterranean. A Moor of Ghat now and then goes to Tripoli. The Italian merchants call them the Gatti, "cats." Arrival of the Sultan Shafou. Visit to his Highness.
If I stay in my country, I do not feel my necessities much; but if I must escort you to Aheer, then I must be well-clothed and fed, or else the people will say, 'Behold the son of Shafou, how poor and miserable he is!" Besides paying about two hundred Spanish dollars for the escort, I have had to feed all the people, and furnish them with tents.
My old broken white umbrella attracts some attention amongst the Kailouees. They all make a trial of it. Strong umbrellas would be very useful during the hot summer months for all Saharan travellers. I to-day asked the son of Shafou how his father liked the sword. An unfortunate question.
Whatever Khanouhen plans, Shafou approves; whatever Khanouhen says in words, Shafou orders to be done." Had a visit from a Touatee, just arrived. He recommended me to go to Timbuctoo, and fear nothing. "What have the Touaricks of Ghat done to you that you are afraid to visit the Touaricks of my country and Timbuctoo?" he added. Now came in two Soudanese merchants.
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